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Title: Cambridge

Author: Noel Barwell

Illustrator: E. W. Haslehust

Release date: May 25, 2024 [eBook #73643]

Language: English

Original publication: London: Blackie & Son Limited, 1910

Credits: Al Haines


*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAMBRIDGE ***







[Frontispiece: THE GREAT COURT, TRINITY COLLEGE]




  CAMBRIDGE


  Described by NOEL BARWELL

  Pictured by E. W. HASLEHUST



  BLACKIE & SON LIMITED
  LONDON AND GLASGOW




  BLACKIE & SON LIMITED
    50 Old Bailey, London
    17 Stanhope Street, Glasgow

  BLACKIE & SON (INDIA) LIMITED
    Warwick House, Fort Street, Bombay

  BLACKIE & SON (CANADA) LIMITED
    Toronto



  BEAUTIFUL ENGLAND

  The Heart of London.
  Dartmoor.
  Canterbury.
  Oxford.
  Bath and Wells.
  In London's By-ways.
  The Peak District.
  Winchester.
  The Thames.
  The Cornish Riviera.
  Shakespeare-land.
  Cambridge.
  York.
  The English Lakes.



  BEAUTIFUL SCOTLAND

  Loch Lomond and the Trossachs.
  Edinburgh.
  The Scott Country.
  The Shores of Fife.



_Printed in Great Britain by Blackie & Son, Ltd., Glasgow_




LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS


The Great Court, Trinity College ... Frontispiece

Byron's Pool

The Kitchen Wall, Peterhouse

The Old Hall, Corpus Christi College

Erasmus' Tower, Queens' College

Gateway, St. John's College

Wren's Bridge, St. John's College

Fisher Lane and Great Bridge

The Market Place

Library Staircase, St. John's College

Fellows' Garden and Pond, Christ's College

Clare College from the Backs








[Illustration: BYRON'S POOL]


[Illustration: CAMBRIDGE]


CAMBRIDGE

To the sympathetic beholder one of the most potent charms of England
lies in the singular diversity of its landscape.  To him each
district makes its special, its peculiar appeal.  He is sensible
everywhere of a real, if intangible, _genius loci_; and he is prone
to seek the effect of some such spirit as well in the history of
communities and bodies politic as in the lives of individuals.  For
him, then, there must needs be something of truth in the idea that
much of the destinies of Oxford and Cambridge lay written upon the
land at their gates.  From the hills above Oxford a man may see the
whole city at his feet.  Generations of men have so seen it, and have
so regarded it, subjectively--as a whole.  At sundown, when the
varied shape of tower and dome merge in a common outline, this
impression of unity becomes unforgetably intensified; and but few,
probably, of those who have found there the place of their education,
will have left it without a sense of having shared in some common
purpose.  It has ever seemed the aim of Oxford to foster uniformity;
of Cambridge, however unconsciously, to encourage the opposite in
thought and manners.  The sympathies which unite men of a Cambridge
education are not therefore less strong, but they are subtler and
less capable of expression in a phrase.

Cambridge is no city of spires.  She lies belted with woods in the
midst of a wide plain.  To south, to west, to east stretches a
lowland landscape, delicately moulded, rich in pasture and
corn-bearing fields.  Northwards a man need ride but a few miles
across the fens to hear the bells of Ely, or at twilight to see the
lantern of that ancient church preserve its solitary vision of the
sun.  Through this broad tract of country, whose every detail is
typical of all which is most beautiful in the Eastern Midlands, winds
that gentlest of English rivers, the Cam.  Above Cambridge, it still
bears its ancient name of Granta; at Ely it is the Ouse.  The scenery
along its upper reaches, though small in scale, is of singular merit
to eyes which are not weary of "Nature's old felicities".  Near
Grantchester, a lock now marks an ancient bifurcation of the river,
and here the stream widens to form a deep sequestered pool, shaded by
a veritable arena of tall trees.  Poet as well as peasant must often
have bathed here and have made it a place of meditation.  It was a
favourite spot with Byron, and it is still called after him.

Passing from the countryside to within the boundaries of the
University itself, nothing, perhaps, will seem more remarkable to the
curious observer than the absence of that hard-featured grandeur with
which the architecture of the Middle Ages was so deeply impressed.
Cambridge goes back eight centuries; but there remains little to
remind us of those many vicissitudes of mediæval life from which
neither of the Universities emerged unscathed; for with the
disappearance of Feudalism, the advent of the New Learning, and the
breakdown of Monasticism, Cambridge assumed a richer dress, and the
fine apparel of those days becomes her still.  From that string of
Tudor palaces whose broad lawns and well-nurtured gardens mark the
lazy passage of the Cam, to those more distant Colleges of Jesus and
Emmanuel, a grave tranquillity pervades the whole.  This sense of
peace and of contentment, so precious to the individual mind, seems
largely due to that gracious domesticity which the Tudor architect so
well knew how to impart even to the meanest of his college buildings.
But to those later architects who practised here, while architecture
was still an art in England, is owing that conscious, studied
stateliness we now prize.  The genius of Wren, which at Oxford in his
tower of Christ Church with inimitable propriety seized upon and
revivified for his purpose the Gothic style of architecture, as
easily and as properly adapted itself to the more reticent temper of
this University.  The examples of his skill which may be seen at
Pembroke and Emmanuel; the bridge at St. John's, built by his pupil
Hawksmoor apparently from his designs; above all his great Library at
Trinity, remain to show with what appreciation he met the
contemplative character of the Cambridge mind, with what zest he lent
his art to the commemoration of her material prosperity.

The first important period of building in Cambridge was the
fourteenth century.  Seven colleges were founded and provided with
decent accommodation between 1324 and 1352.  In the next century four
more colleges were set up.  While in the sixteenth century, from 1505
to 1595, another seven colleges were added to the University.  Two
other colleges have since arisen in Cambridge--Downing, built in
1805; and Selwyn, set up originally as a hostel in 1882, but now
recognized as a "House" in all but the official sense of that
expression.  There are also two large and important colleges which
are devoted to the higher education of women.  Girton College,
founded in 1867, is the oldest institution of its kind.  Newnham
College dates from 1871.  That Cambridge should have been the first
university in England to admit women to her studies and to her
examinations is no more than fitting, when it is remembered that some
six of her principal colleges were founded or endowed by great
ladies.  Members of Clare, Pembroke, Queens', Christ's, St. John's,
and Sidney Sussex Colleges may, for this reason, very properly feel a
certain debt to the sex.

Still more remarkable is the extent of royal benefaction in
Cambridge.  In Oxford only one College, Queen's, owes its existence
directly to the patronage of royalty.  At Cambridge there are five
houses which can lay claim to the style of a royal foundation:
King's, Trinity, Queens', Christ's, St. John's; and of these the
first two were founded and endowed by reigning sovereigns.  King's
Hall--afterwards merged in Trinity--was planned by Edward II and
endowed by Edward III; King's College was founded by Henry VI; and
Trinity by Henry VIII, who further endowed several professorships in
the University; Queen Margaret of Anjou and Elizabeth Woodville,
Queen to Edward IV, are co-founders of Queens'; Lady Margaret Tudor
was the foundress of Christ's and St. John's Colleges.  But the
patronage of England's monarchs did not end with the sixteenth
century.  Mary was a benefactor to Trinity.  Queen Elizabeth attached
Westminster School to that college by certain scholarships, and sent
timber to and completed the chapel there.  She also sent building
material to Corpus Christi College.  James I was always coming to
Cambridge; but, like most of the Stuarts, did little for the
University, unless a copy of his literary "works" be considered a
benefaction.  George I purchased the library of Bishop Moore of Ely
and gave it to the University.  He also founded the regius
professorship of Modern History there; while George IV contributed to
the building of what is now called the New Court at Trinity College.
His brother, the Duke of Gloucester, was the first member of an
English Royal family to be educated within the precincts of a
university.  He was of Trinity, where two portraits of him now hang.
The House of Hanover has ever shown favour to Cambridge.  Prince
Albert, Consort to Queen Victoria, was its Chancellor, and his late
Majesty King Edward VII, having himself spent a year at each of the
Universities, sent his elder son, the late lamented Duke of Clarence,
to Cambridge, where he was entered at Trinity and by his father's
special command "kept" in college, attended the usual lectures, and
lived the ordinary life of an undergraduate nobleman.  The latest
member of the Royal family to enter the University is Prince Leopold
of Battenberg, whose period of residence at Magdalene College has
only recently terminated.

It seems never easy to explain to people unacquainted with English
University life, the precise difference between the University and
the College.  The University, as a corporation teaching and granting
degrees, is older than any college, and has its own endowments.  Now,
however, that the colleges have come and have established a social
and domestic tone which could not exist without them, the University
shows itself conscious of their value in a great many ways.  The
Vice-chancellor is elected from the number of Heads of Houses; the
Proctors are nominated by each college in rotation, and the
University expects and has now the power to exact contributions from
each college towards the necessary expenses of the whole academy.
Within the colleges themselves there are three grades of inmate: the
Fellow, the Scholar, and the Pensioner.  The first must be of
Bachelor standing at the time of his election, and must shortly
afterwards proceed to a higher degree.  He draws his stipend from the
endowments of the college.  From this class are drawn the college
Tutors, Lecturers, and Deans, while as many more "dons" devote their
time to private study.  The scholars on the foundation draw their
stipends from the endowments of the college in accordance with the
statutes or the terms of some special benefaction; while the term
Pensioner comprises all those undergraduates who pay for everything
they receive at college.

But the history of the English Universities must be considered as
that of communities into whose lives colleges were introduced for a
social rather than a scholastic purpose.  Cambridge grew into a seat
of learning during the latter half of the twelfth century, but the
first College, Peterhouse, was not founded till 1284.  Till then, the
scholars who resorted to the place lodged where they could in the
town.  This was the practice at every university in Europe; and, even
to-day, the Universities of Oxford, Cambridge, and Dublin afford the
only exceptions to it.

[Illustration: THE KITCHEN WALL, PETERHOUSE]

Housed in dwellings mean enough to the eye and as certainly
ungracious to the nose, the young scholars of those early days lived
a life of what we should now call intolerable discomfort.  Coarse
vesture, scanty food, long hours in the "common schools", such were
the dominant features in the student life of every youth who sought
to acquire the book learning of his day.  Nor did the foundation of
the first few colleges sensibly alter these unhappy conditions.  The
aim of their founders was the removal by benefaction of some of the
worst hardships to which the young scholar was then subjected.  Thus
provision was made for the bare necessaries of life--lodging, food,
and raiment.  Poverty was, of course, the first statutory
qualification for membership.  That the prosecution of certain
studies was enjoined upon the beneficiaries, testifies less to a
desire to further this or that branch of knowledge than to a not
unnatural anxiety lest these young men should fall into idleness or
other evil habits.

What was the town and what the university into which this new element
of scholastic life now entered?  Cambridge had a navigable river
pouring its waters into the North Sea at the natural port of Lynn.
Moreover, the town marked the junction of two Roman roads.  It was a
fertile spot; and its situation had struck the Conqueror as one of
strategic importance.  Here, therefore, he built a castle, the mound
of which remains to this day.  The structure itself was dismantled
gradually during the fifteenth century.  Some of the stone was used
for the building of King's Hall, and some for King's College.
"Hereby", writes Fuller in 1655, "that stately structure, anciently
the ornament of Cambridge, is at this day reduced next to nothing."
But during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries men might still look
at that Norman keep and take heart of grace.  Under its shadow had
grown up a prosperous market town.  On the one hand it was the
greatest Fish Mart, on the other a town noted for one of the most
important Fairs in the country.  This Fair was held in a field hard
by the village of Barnwell, that is to say, within two miles of the
University town itself; it began on the feast of St. Bartholomew and
lasted until the fourteenth day after the feast of the Exaltation of
the Cross (Aug.  24--Sept.  14).  It still survives as the principal
pleasure show and Horse Fair of the shire.

With these advantages Cambridge, as a town, rose rapidly in
importance.  The Jews appeared in 1106; and during that and the
succeeding century most of the religious orders had established
themselves in the place.  The Templars were the first to appear.
They built their church sometime between 1120 and 1140.  It is the
earliest of the four round churches which have come down to us.

Our universities, like most other English institutions, were not
made--they grew; and all we can say of the origin of Cambridge is,
that before the thirteenth century was far advanced references to it
as a "stadium generate" or University creep into the state documents
of the time.  A migration from Oxford took place in 1209, and in 1231
a letter from King Henry III to the Mayor and bailiffs makes mention
of a great influx of scholars "both from the regions near home and
from beyond the seas".  This document is also interesting as showing
that the finding of lodgings was a matter of no little difficulty to
the scholars.  The King has to request the townspeople to deal
properly with the students in all such transactions.  When,
therefore, Walter de Merton, the founder of the College in Oxford
which bears his name, bought land at both Universities and endowed
students in those schools, his benefaction came none too soon.  His
house and scholars at Cambridge are mentioned in a document as early
as 1259; and it was not till 1274 that he removed these scholars to
the other University.  Ten years later was founded the first
exclusively Cambridge College.  It was to consist of a Master and
fourteen Fellows, together with a number of "bible clerks"--young men
whose duty it was to read to the Society at meal times.  This College
was dedicated to St. Peter, and was known as "the House of the
scholars of St. Peter", or Peterhouse.  The founder was Hugh de
Balsham, Bishop of Ely.

The reasons which dictated Merton's change of policy can only be
conjectured.  To attempt to set up a stable society in an obviously
unstable community must have seemed to many a risky project.  A
university was a body of students who possessed in actual property
little more than the gowns upon their backs.  At a word of plague or
rapine they could, and indeed did, migrate elsewhere.  A college with
buildings and land could not as easily or as profitably take flight.
From the point of view of a would-be benefactor, Cambridge, standing
as it did "on the edge of the great wild"--to use Mr. J. W. Clark's
words--might well seem to possess a less favourable situation than
Oxford.  It had, in the past, suffered a great deal from attack; and
if the educationists of those days thought twice before running the
risk of seeing their good works brought to nought in Cambridge, the
subsequent history of the University very nearly bore out their worst
fears; for the revolting peasants who followed the celebrated Wat
Tyler entered Cambridge in considerable numbers, and, being joined by
the great mass of the townsfolk, broke into Corpus Christi College.
They burnt its archives, together with every other book and paper
they could lay their hands on; and not content with this damage "done
and committed", they repaired to St. Mary's and the Common Schools,
where, seizing the University chests, they destroyed the muniments
and made away with the funds.

[Illustration: THE OLD HALL, CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE]

Thus it is neither surprising if Merton should have felt doubtful of
the continued prosperity of Cambridge, nor remarkable that
twenty-eight years should have elapsed before Hugh de Balsham's
venture in founding a college there should have met with the flattery
of imitation.  But the next college, that of Michaelhouse (merged
afterwards, as was King's Hall, in Henry VIII's great College of the
Holy Trinity), was followed in quick succession by five other
foundations:--Clare Hall, 1326; King's Hall, 1337; Pembroke Hall,
1347; Gunvil Hall (now Gonville and Caius College), 1348; Trinity
Hall, 1350; and Corpus Christi College, 1352.

Perhaps a word concerning the nomenclature of Cambridge Colleges may
fittingly find a place here.  "College" is a late expression, as
things go in Cambridge.  The earliest words are _domus_ and _aula_,
respectively "house" and "hall": thus Peterhouse, Michaelhouse, and
God's House (now Christ's College); and Clare Hall, Pembroke Hall,
and Catharine Hall.  This use of the word "hall" is ancient and
honourable in Cambridge, and the fact that it has a different
signification in Oxford, where it is used to denote a licensed
lodging-house under a Master of Arts, should never have operated to
prevent its retention in our University to-day.  "The Hall of the
Holy Trinity of Norwich" is perhaps forced by circumstance to
preserve its ancient name; but when it calls itself "_The_ Hall", it
does so, one must hope, rather as a protest than in pride of
singularity.  Some popular errors or misapprehensions may here be
noted under this head.  The college styled in the Cambridge Calendar
"Gonville and Caius" was originally founded by one Edmund Gonville,
who pronounced his name "Gunvil".  It was later re-endowed and much
enlarged by the celebrated Dr. Keys, who, conformable to the fashion
of his day, latinized his name for literary purposes into "Caius".
The latinized form of the one and the more correct spelling of the
other founder are now used in writing down the name of the College;
but, colloquially, traditional usage still preserves the English
names in the pronunciation of their time.  The members of Queens'
College, in virtue of two royal foundresses, write the apostrophe
after the final "s"; while Magdalene men insist on preserving the
final "e" in the name of their patron saint.  Perhaps, however, the
most curious example of a wrong name clinging to a House is presented
by Jesus College.  This, the popular appellation, is no better than a
nickname.  The college is not dedicated to Our Saviour, but to "The
Blessed Virgin Mary, St. John the Evangelist, and the Glorious Virgin
St. Rhadigund".  It happens to stand in the now obliterated and
forgotten parish of Jesus; but this nickname from a past age
continues to serve its old and useful purpose.  Another example is
that of Pembroke College, founded by Marie, widow of Aylmer de
Valence, Earl of Pembroke.  The foundress wished her college to be
styled "The Hall of Valence Marie", and such is its proper name.
Lastly, King's College was dedicated to St. Mary and St. Nicholas.

Before turning to the more modern aspect of Cambridge, the subject
demands that something should be said of those notable periods of
prosperity, the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.  The evidence of
the growth and power of the University during those years lies, for
the visitor, in the number and magnificence of the buildings then
undertaken which have survived till our own day the dual tests of
time and taste.  Of the original buildings of those early colleges to
which reference has already been made next to nothing remains.  The
shell of the old court at Corpus is still standing; but this part of
the college has been re-roofed, most of the windows in it are of a
late period, and it is almost wholly covered with ivy.  Some of the
masonry forming the south wall of the Peterhouse kitchen is perhaps
as old as anything in Cambridge; and this quaint corner of the oldest
college is the subject of an illustration to the present volume.  The
Chapel of this college is of the seventeenth century.  The Library is
late Tudor.  The Hall and Combination Room are part restorations and
part a matter of fresh designing.  The work was undertaken between
1866-70.  Gilbert Scott, William Morris, Burne-Jones, and Ford Madox
Brown had each a hand in it.  Trinity Hall has been almost entirely
rebuilt.  All save the Library, which is late Tudor and which lies
beyond the main quadrangle, is of late eighteenth-century design.
The lodge and certain newer buildings are said to be commodious.
They are none the less ugly.  The rebuilding of Clare Hall began
during the reign of Charles I and was continued during the
interregnum; but it was not finished until the eighteenth century had
entered upon the last quarter of its course.  As it stands to-day, it
is perhaps the most perfect example of the Carolian style in England.
The little bow window over the gateway is remembered as the favourite
seat of a certain fellow of the College, who lived and died more than
a hundred years ago, and of whom it is recorded that, being at feud
with the Master of his College, he chose this particular set of
chambers, because of the chance it afforded him of successfully
spitting at that unlucky dignitary as he entered or left the college
precincts.

[Illustration: ERASMUS' TOWER, QUEENS' COLLEGE]

Pembroke College possessed till quite recently a really beautiful
example of a fourteenth-century Dining-hall.  The late Mr. Waterhouse
alarmed the society by reporting it to be in danger of falling about
their ears.  He was commissioned, therefore, to take it down and to
build them another.  In executing the first part of these
instructions he was observed to have recourse to dynamite.  Less
drastic methods might avail to remove the building which now occupies
the place of that fine old Hall.  In speaking of it the present
writer is tempted to borrow the words of the learned Provost of
King's in noticing the Library building by the same hand: "It could
only suffer", says Dr. James, "by any description of it that I might
write".  Gonville Hall was another college destined to undergo a
complete remodelling.  Fortunately the rebuilding took place in the
sixteenth century, and much of the work then undertaken remains to
this day.  It marked the munificence of its re-founder, and devoted
master, the celebrated Dr. Caius.  This extraordinary man was born in
Norwich in 1510.  He was of Gonville Hall, and, after taking the
usual degrees, proceeded Doctor at Padua, where he lectured in Greek.
His learning was prodigious and his reputation European.  He lived to
translate some Erasmus into English, to write numerous treatises of
his own, to preside over the College of Physicians, to carry out
various antiquarian researches, and to serve with distinction as
Physician to Edward VI, Mary, and Elizabeth.  He ended his days
Master of his beloved College in Cambridge, where he lies buried.  In
his last illness he endeavoured to sustain life by a return to the
natural nourishment of infancy; and divers dames of the town were
privileged to minister to his wants in this respect.  Being observed
to be now "froward, peevish, and full of frets", and now tractable,
docile, and of an amiable countenance, his moods and tempers were
considered to vary with the individual source of his curious
refreshment.  Gonville and Caius College, as it is now called,
possessed till recently three gateways of the time of Caius.  That
leading on to the street was inscribed the Gate of Humility; that
between the first and second court, the Gate of Virtue; and the last,
as leading to the hall where degrees were conferred, the Gate of
Honour.  Of these gates the two last mentioned have fortunately
survived; but the first has given place to a large block of buildings
designed by the late Mr. Waterhouse in his best Provincial Assurance
manner.  The visitor will be startled to read the words _Porta
Humilitatis_ above the doorway of this amazing pile.

The fifteenth century saw four more Colleges added to the list of
Cambridge Houses: King's, 1441; Queens', 1448; St. Catharine's, 1473;
Jesus, 1495.  The first of these was designed to eclipse every other
collegiate foundation in England.  As finally settled by the will of
Henry VI, its founder, the society consisted of seventy souls under
the headship of a Provost.  It is bound by sisterly ties to King
Henry's other foundation, the College of St. Mary at Eton.  Eton,
indeed, was and is to King's College what Winchester has been to New
College in Oxford.  Till 1857 the scholars of Eton proceeded by right
to scholarships and fellowships at King's.  None but Etonians could
come upon the foundation, and Kingsmen enjoyed the further privilege
of proceeding to their degrees without any University examination.
The Society ceded these privileges in the year named, and by its
present statutes consists of a Provost, forty-six Fellows,
forty-eight Scholars, of whom twenty-four hold "close" scholarships
attached to Eton, two Chaplains, an Organist, and a Master of the
Boys.  The choristers on the foundation are required to be of gentle
birth, and they have their education in an admirably equipped school
under the special government of the College.  Of the buildings which
the founder not only contemplated but specified in a document drawn
up by himself, nothing but the Chapel was so much as set out.  The
Gatehouse, the great Quadrangle, the Hall and Butteries, the Library,
the Provost's Lodging, the Cloister with its garth, the Bell Tower,
and the bridge across the river were planned and specified, but never
undertaken on the lines which the founder so carefully laid down.
The King died before he could sufficiently endow his college.  His
immediate successors in the Crown of England, to whom in language
unforgetably solemn he commended the care of his foundation, did
something for it; but egotism being stronger than piety in princes,
those royalties of a later age who cared to patronize learning
preferred to initiate rather than complete.  The Chapel of King's
College, however, owes a great deal to the munificence of the
Sovereigns of England.  It took more than a century in building, and
cost for the stonework alone about £160,000, according to the present
value of money.  To the completion of this magnificent structure
Edward IV, Richard III, Henry VII, Henry VIII, and Queen Elizabeth
subscribed on a liberal scale.  The window glass and the woodwork
belong wholly to the sixteenth century, with here and there additions
of a later date.  The roof, had it been carried out by the first set
of masons employed, would certainly have been "lierne" vaulted; but
by the time the walls were ready to bear a roof at all, "fan"
vaulting had come into vogue.  The Chapel as it stands to-day
presents without doubt one of the most beautiful interiors to be seen
in England.  The choir-screen and stalls are of Renaissance design,
executed with a subtlety not to be matched on this side of the Alps.
The Lectern is of the first quarter of the sixteenth century and is
therefore nearly contemporaneous with the greater number of the
stained-glass windows.  In one of the side chapels is preserved an
interesting specimen of a fifteenth-century pulpit, which on March 25
of every year, being the Annunciation of the Virgin, is brought forth
into the church.  From this pulpit a Fellow of the College preaches
before the University on the day named: a departure from the usual
custom of meeting in Great St. Mary's which serves to mark the
founder's wish that his college should occupy a pre-eminent place in
Cambridge.

The sixteenth century saw the foundation and endowment of the two
great colleges of Trinity and St. John's, the sister college to the
latter, Christ's, and the rise of Magdalene, Emmanuel, and Sidney
Sussex.  Of these, St. John's was the first to attain eminence.
Bishop Fisher, Cecil the great Lord Burleigh, and Archbishop Williams
successively lent her their aid.  She became _par excellence_ an
aristocratic college, and by the first decade of the nineteenth
century could boast that she included among her alumni more men of
note in the social and intellectual life of the country than any
other college in either University could lay claim to.  The first
Court of this College has been much disturbed.  The gateway is one of
the finest examples of its period to be found anywhere; but, on
entering the College, the eye is at once offended by a poor
eighteenth-century range of buildings on the left, and a vast effort
by the late Sir Gilbert Scott, by way of Chapel, on the right.  The
second Court, however, is well-nigh faultless.  Here is late Tudor at
its best; and in this small rosy-red brick of the period it finds the
happiest material for the expression of its aims.  The further or
third Court is Carolian.  It is quaint and charming in its own rather
odd fashion, and as seen from the river, whose waters here touch the
very walls of its western range, contrives to bear a strangely
impressive appearance.  The Cam is here spanned by two bridges: one,
a very beautiful example of Sir Christopher Wren's style--it was
built by his pupil Hawksmoor--the other a Cockney Gothic affair
commonly called "The Bridge of Sighs".  This last connects the old
Carolian building with a huge range built during the years 1827-31,
which cost the college £78,000.  Of the bridge itself, which is part
of this dreadful building, it will be noticed that a certain decency
of proportion--its one merit--renders it some degrees less detestable
than the main structure to which it belongs.

Christ's College, the other "Lady Margaret" foundation, has undergone
a great deal of rebuilding and not a few additions.  The gateway from
the street and most of the chambers to right and left of it are of
the sixteenth century.  The finest architectural possession of the
college is its block of Fellows' buildings towards the garden.  It
would seem to be by a pupil of Inigo Jones, if not actually by the
Master himself.

Magdalene is the only college in Cambridge which, in a sense, is of
monkish origin.  It was originally a cell of Croyland; and being
endowed by Henry, second Duke of Buckingham, it soon came to be known
as Buckingham College.  In 1483 it is styled "Bokyngham College" and
its inmates are described as "monachi".  Lord Chancellor Audley, who
changed the foundation into Magdalene College, refounded it for an
ordinary academical society, after the house, as a cell of Croyland
Abbey, had escheated to the Crown.  This college does not elect its
Master: the headship of the House being in the gift of the "owner of
Audley End".  At present, therefore, the Lords Braybrooke present to
the Mastership.  Magdalene is a picturesque and commodiously arranged
college, and, though small, has many attractive features.  The most
interesting building is that erected in the seventeenth century,
primarily with the idea of providing suitable accommodation for the
library of Samuel Pepys the diarist.  The latest addition, a range
brought close to the riverside, is perhaps the most successful in
design and colour of any of the more recent buildings in the
University.

The College of the Holy and Undivided Trinity, though inheriting much
from the earlier college--King's Hall--which was set up by Edward II
and his son Edward III, owes almost everything to King Henry VIII.
It was typical of this monarch that, after somewhat maltreating
Wolsey's foundation at Oxford and paying not too much attention to
Henry VI's or King's College at Cambridge, he should have set about
founding Trinity with the plain intent of eclipsing both.  The
College as we see it to-day, is the largest and wealthiest in either
University.  It is founded for a Master, sixty Fellows at the least,
and eighty Scholars.  In full term the resident members number nearly
eight hundred souls.  From the first, the buildings were set out to
accommodate an unusually large society.  The Great Court, with its
Chapel, Gatehouse, Hall, Master's Lodge, and rows of chambers, broken
here by a tower, there by a turret, occupies over two acres of
ground.  The character of its architecture is for the most part
Tudor; for the restorations and alterations which have from time to
time taken place have not been permitted to stray far from the
traditional style of the Court.  A further court--the Cloister or
Neville's Court--consists of two ranges of Jacobean design, modified
by later hands so as to fare better than they otherwise would beside
Sir Christopher Wren's great Library building, which here occupies
the entire western side of the quadrangle, even projecting above and
beyond it on either side.  In addition to these two spacious courts
there are three other quadrangles, all of recent date.  These are
fortunately so situated that the sightseer can easily avoid looking
at them.

[Illustration: GATEWAY, ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE]

Emmanuel College possesses one court of the founder's time, and
beautiful it is.  It is rarely shown to the ordinary visitor, but
those who care for simple unpretending work of this period (1584)
have only to ask for the dovecot garden.  The main Court of the
College is of the seventeenth and eighteenth century.  Wren made the
design for the Chapel, which was built between 1668-78.  The Court is
finely proportioned and has always been admired.

Sidney Sussex College, the last college to belong to the sixteenth
century, has been harshly dealt with.  A charming Elizabethan college
has been ruthlessly turned into a thoroughly bad stucco dwelling
gothicized in the Wyatt manner.  It has its treasures: a fine garden,
good pictures, and some handsome plate.

We have now traced the main periods of Cambridge building.  We have
said very little of the life of the University or the growth of the
town during these four hundred years.  It is, indeed, hard to
contemplate the visible memorials of those days without imagining a
social life grander and happier for the individual man than could
ever have been the case.  Almost everything which makes for the
amenities of college life as we see it to-day is comparatively
speaking modern.  To picture the life of scholars young and old even
so late as the sixteenth century, we must be prepared to learn
strange things.  Fireplaces were few and far between.  Folk gathered
as much as possible in the Common Hall of the College.  Here was set
a brazier of charcoal, its fumes poisonous and disagreeable finding
their way through a lantern or louvre in the roof.  Rushes were upon
the floor, if it were not tiled or paved.  Windows having glass in
them were not common before the fifteenth century.  The sanitary
arrangements were primitive, ill-managed, and consequently wretched.
Street lighting was unknown.  Scholars slept two and often more in a
bed; and went, as did everyone else, naked to their beds.  The
advantages of a bedfellow in those bitter winters were obvious.  It
was equally obvious that those who shared a chamber, and so often a
bed, should be well suited to one another; and parents expressed a
not unnatural anxiety on this head.  Letters exist in which the
Tutor, who usually occupied a bed apart in a chamber for five
persons, of whom four would be his pupils, is asked to choose
carefully a bedfellow "gentle and virtuous" for the youthful
freshman.  The average age of entering was about fourteen during the
earlier periods, but rose to sixteen during the latter centuries of
which we have been writing.  Most college offences were punishable by
whipping, graver imprudences meeting with public chastisement
executed by a menial in the Common Hall of the College.  Fellows of
M.A. standing could be put in the college "stocks", and often were so
handled.  The pedagogic notion that intellectual advancement is
furthered by the application of physical pain was not confined to the
grammar schools, and parents were often eager to place their sons
under the care of a strong-armed college tutor.  "Prey Grenefield",
wrote a certain lady to a Cambridge Tutor in the time of Henry VI,
"to send me faithfully worde ho Clemit Paston hathe do his dever i'
lernyng, and if he hathe nought do well nor wyll nought amende, prey
him that he wyll trewly belash him tyll he wyll amend, and so did ye
last maystr and ye best en he had att Caumbreg."  As time went on,
however, the life of the ordinary pensioner became comfortable
enough; but, unhappily, the scholar on the Foundation and the Sizar,
or poorest of the juniors, one who paid for his education by the
performance of menial offices, remained objects of contempt with the
more wealthy undergraduates.  Before the end of the fifteenth
century, pensioners "in Fellows' Commons" had made their appearance
in Cambridge.  They were allowed to dine with the Fellows at the High
Table, wore richly embroidered gowns and enjoyed many other
privileges and distinctions.  A higher order still was that of
persons who entered as "Noblemen".  Many of the latter class lived in
College and "kept" there in some state.  For example, in 1624 Lord
Maltravers and his brother William Howard, sons of the then Earl of
Arundel and Surrey, came up to St. John's College with a retinue of
servants.  It was requested that the brothers might occupy one room
"with a pallett for the groome of their chamber"; while "the rest of
his lordship's company, being two gentlemen, a groome of the stable,
and a footman, might be lodged in the town near the College".

[Illustration: WREN'S BRIDGE, ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE]

But the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, for all the patronage of
learning affected by prince and peer alike, were troublous times for
the scholar.  Much wit was needed to guide him through those
political and religious conflicts which at times threatened to bring
the University to dissolution.  Doctors and Masters were for ever
being ousted, driven overseas, or thrown into prison.  No man knew
when he might not be called upon to exchange a deanery for a dungeon.
Let one example suffice.  On the death of Edward VI, Lady Jane Grey
was at once proclaimed Queen by order of Northumberland.  On 16 July
the Lady Mary was but five miles from Cambridge, at the house of Sir
Robert Huddlestone.  There she heard Mass and pushed on into Suffolk,
where she met her supporters.  The Duke of Northumberland with his
army arrived in Cambridge five days later.  He was Chancellor of the
University and a man zealous in promoting its prosperity.  How far
the residents believed in his cause we know not; but there seemed
little apprehension of the fate which in reality awaited him.  The
Vice-Chancellor and many of the Heads supped with him that night, and
on the morrow he set off for Bury.  His return was speedy.  And here
in the Market-place, bereft of his former supporters, he was obliged,
in the presence of the Mayor, Vice-Chancellor, and the rest of the
Cambridge notables, to proclaim Mary Queen.  He then repaired in some
state to King's College, where, at a late hour that night, he was
arrested by one Roger Slegge, the sergeant-at-arms, who was permitted
to enter the gates unmolested, though, as Fuller says, "that College
was fenced with more privileges than any other foundation in the
University".

The Popish reaction burst out at Cambridge with almost incredible
swiftness.  On a certain day "Doctor Sandys, the Vice-Chancellor, on
the ringing of the Schools' bell, went according to his custom and
office, attended with the Bedells into the Regent House and sat down
in the chair according to his place.  In cometh one Master Mitch with
a rabble of some twenty Papists, some endeavouring to pluck him from
the chair, others the chair from him, all using railling words and
violent actions.  The Doctor, being a man of mettle, groped for his
dagger and probably had despatched some of them had not Dr. Bill and
Dr. Blyth by their prayers and entreaties persuaded him to patience."
He was, in due course, despoiled, deprived, and cast into prison.
But there were other losses which the University was called upon to
suffer during these two hundred years: direct loss of treasure, and
damage to those fair fabrics which the piety of benefactors had
bestowed upon the community.  Association of ideas is strong, and the
Reformers were probably justified by circumstances in most of their
destructive operations.  Yet the finer spirits must have felt keenly
the demolition of many objects irreplaceable by the hand of man.
Good Dr. Caius kept what he dared of Mass books, vestments, and
antique church ornaments, and seems to have hidden them away; but
they were discovered and destroyed; and probably nothing but the
degree of eminence to which he had then attained as a physician saved
him from sharing the fate of his treasures.  As for the Puritans
under Cromwell, they did less damage than they might have done.
King's College Chapel, the glory of the University, they wholly
spared; and the various Colleges were called upon for less tribute
than the experiences of other corporations and the rough usage of
those times might have prepared their inhabitants to expect.

During the early part of the reign of Charles I "the University",
says Fuller, "began to be much beautified in buildings, every College
either shedding its skin with the snake, or renewing its bill with
the eagle, having their courts or at leastwise their fronts and
gatehouses repaired and adorned.  But the greatest alterations were
in their chapels, most of them being graced with the accession of
organs."  Many of the chapel ornaments were subsequently defaced by
Cromwell; but, as has already been stated, King's was left untouched
in the matter of its fabric, its glass, and its brasses.  The
elaborate tombs in Caius Chapel were not injured; and the much
earlier tomb--that of Hugh Ashton--in St. John's was also left
undisturbed.  The Fellows of Peterhouse took the precaution to bury
the glass which filled the east window of their chapel.  It lay
undiscovered, and all of it has now been replaced.  Certainly
Cromwell got some plate out of the University, but this tribute was
as nothing when compared to that which went to Charles.  Trinity sent
practically its all.  King's, as the earlier Royal Foundation, could
not afford to be behindhand.  St. John's was Tory almost to a man,
and away went most of her finest silver.  "Her contribution", says
the present Master, "was £150 in money and 2065 ounces, grocer's
weight, of silver plate."  Among the pieces so lost were some bearing
the names of Thomas Wentworth, Lord Strafford, and of Thomas Fairfax.
For this the College later suffered much indignity.  Cromwell
surrounded the place, took the Master a prisoner, and "confiscated
the communion plate and other valuables".  Nearly every College had
paid tribute; but the fact that Cambridge was providentially spared
the duty of nursing, either then or afterwards, any part of a Stuart
Court, enabled her to save for posterity as much in gold and silver
works of handicraft as Oxford lost.  Thus the Cambridge plate as it
stands to-day is the finest collection of its kind in existence.

[Illustration: FISHER LANE AND GREAT BRIDGE]

Throughout these two hundred years--years of Renaissance, of
Reformation, of Revival, of Revolution--Cambridge poured forth an
unending stream of men destined for the highest places in church, in
state, in scholarship, and in letters.  Coverdale, Fox, Ridley,
Latimer, Cranmer, Gardiner, Parker, Grindal, Whitgift, Bancroft,
Andrews, Cosin, Williams, Taylor, Stillingfleet, Sancroft, Tillotson,
Tenison are her divines; and of the seven "nonjuring" bishops, five,
including the Primate, were Cambridge men.  The Protector Somerset,
Cecil the great Lord Burleigh, his kinsman of Salisbury, Walsingham,
Essex, Fulke Greville, Sir John Harrington, Chief Justice Coke, Sir
Nicholas Bacon and his son Francis, Lord Verulam (commonly but
wrongly styled Lord Bacon), Sir William Temple, Oliver Cromwell are
figures which are painted large upon the canvas of history; and in a
dark corner are inscribed the names, at once famous and infamous, of
Judge Jeffreys and Titus Gates.  The lists of Cambridge scholars,
poets, and prose writers of this age is no less remarkable.  Roger
Ascham, Sir John Cheke, Sir Thomas Smith, Jeremy Taylor, Thomas
Fuller; the poets Spenser, Harvey, Marlowe, Greene, Fletcher, Ben
Jonson, Heywood, Andrew Marvell, Milton, Cowley, Donne, Dryden,
Herbert, Herrick, are names likely to live so long as the English
language be spoken.  Among Cambridge antiquaries we find the names of
Stowe, Leland, and Strype.  In medicine Cambridge was the foremost
English school, and the names of Caius, Butler, Gilbert, and Harvey
have a permanent place in the history of that Faculty.  Three
celebrated men of letters--Shirley, Lodge, and Lilley--migrated from
Oxford to Cambridge.  Wolsey, when he founded in Oxford his
Cardinal's College--now styled Christ Church--came to King's College
and King's Hall in Cambridge for many of his first Fellows.  A
Cambridge College, Pembroke, gave no fewer than four Heads to Oxford
Houses during the latter half of the sixteenth century; and of this
same College was Bishop Fox, the founder of Corpus Christi College in
Oxford, and of two professorships there.  In the New World, with the
names of "the Pilgrim Fathers", are remembered those of Hooker of
Peterhouse, of Eliot the "Indian Apostle" who took his degree in
1622, and of John Harvard of Emmanuel, the founder of America's
oldest House of Learning.  Horrocks and Flamsteed, the astronomers,
founded a Cambridge School of Astronomy which has since taken the
foremost place in the development of that science.

The Cambridge of our own day contains much that is reminiscent of
those two hundred years.  During the sixteenth and seventeenth
centuries academical dress settled itself into the form in which for
the most we now see it.  But something has come down to us of even
earlier days.  Cambridge is not unjustly proud of the fact that,
unlike Oxford, the shape of its hood has remained practically
unaltered since the fourteenth century.  A notable mediæval garment
still worn at Cambridge, and not elsewhere to be found, is the _Cappa
Clausa_ or "closed cope", used by the Vice-Chancellor and by certain
Doctors of Divinity, Law, and Physic on special occasions.  It is of
scarlet cloth with an ermine hood and trimmings.  It must not be
confused with the scarlet gowns worn by all doctors in the several
Faculties on gala days.  Over the gate of Queens' College the curious
may see a rude representation of a doctor so robed; but a really fine
example of this dress as worn in the sixteenth century may be seen on
the brass to the memory of John Argentein, D.D., M.D. (1507), in
King's College Chapel.  It was during the sixteenth century that the
present style of M.A. gown and that of the Law gowns worn at
Cambridge by Doctors of Laws and in the Courts by King's Counsel came
into use.  The style is fundamentally that of the ordinary walking
dress of a notable of the end of the fifteenth century.  A robe of
this kind, as an over-garment, obtained all over Europe during the
succeeding hundred years, and it would appear to have been Italian in
origin.  An example of the academical form of this garment may be
seen on a brass at Croxton in Cambridgeshire, where is represented
the figure of one Edward Leeds, LL.D., a Master of Clare Hall, who
died in 1589.  The strings now worn on all Cambridge gowns would seem
to have come into general use about this time.  In early times gowns
were "closed" garments, and were put on over the head; and after it
became lawful to wear them open in front, strings were used to tie
the gown across the breast, and they were so worn until quite
recently.  Three other survivals of the costume of this later period
may be noted.  They are all peculiar to Cambridge.  For example, the
Proctor assumes on certain occasions an upper garment called a
"ruff".  Over this he wears his hood in the ordinary way.  On certain
other occasions, however, he must wear his hood "squared", that is,
so folded that it presents the appearance of a large square cape.
The method of arranging this dress has been handed down, as has a
pattern "ruff", from Proctor to Proctor; but nowadays the
repositories of such traditions are more often the Proctors' men,
who, in these matters, perform the offices which judges expect of
their clerks.  The full dress of a Proctor's man--or "bull dog", as
he is vulgarly called--is picturesque enough, for it is of a
seventeenth-century pattern and consists in a long blue cloak studded
with brass buttons.  With this he carries a halberd.  The Chancellor
or Vice-Chancellor in procession is always preceded by two graduates,
of M.A. standing at least, who are styled Esquire Bedells.  The maces
which these gentlemen carry on such occasions were given by George
Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, the favourite of James I.  The Duke was
elected Chancellor of the University by the narrow majority of five
votes.  Another old custom, full of associations for Cambridge men,
is the ringing of Curfew at Great St. Mary's Church.  The University
bell rings the Curfew nightly from nine of the clock till ten minutes
past the hour.  The date of the month is also struck by one of the
same peal of bells.  More curious, however, is the fact that the
service, or, more properly speaking, the "office" of Compline, is
commemorated at Trinity Hall by the ringing of a bell there nightly
at ten o'clock.

Many echoes of those "Disputations" which in mediæval times took the
place of examinations may be followed in the Cambridge of to-day.
The office of "Moderator" is with us still; Junior and Senior
"Sophisters" are those who are on the road to becoming
"Questionists"; and "Wranglers" are those who issue with honours from
the supposed contest.  A person qualifying for a medical degree when
reading or submitting his finished "Thesis" is said to "Keep an Act"
(i.e. a Disputation) for that degree.  The origin of the word Tripos
is not yet settled.  Perhaps it derived itself from some sort of
stool.  Anyhow, by the middle of the eighteenth century, the Tripos
had come to mean a sheet of paper upon one side of which were printed
the names of those who had attained Honours in the Mathematical
School, whilst upon the other was a copy of Latin Verses.  Sheets of
this Tripos paper were thrown by the Moderators from the gallery of
the Senate House into the crowd assembled below.  But until this same
century was some way advanced another set of verses, usually very
scurrilous in character, were recited by a sort of University
Buffoon, who came also to be called "The Tripos".  Licensed revellers
were well-known institutions in both Universities throughout the
Middle Age; but it was not until this Tripos fellow had been the
subject of many scandals, protests, and warnings, that he was finally
abolished.

The history of the English Universities in the eighteenth century has
yet to be written; and though much material for such a history is
accessible to the humblest enquirer, it is not possible in so short
an essay as the present to do more than touch--and that very
lightly--upon the salient features of Cambridge life during this,
perhaps the most diverting period of the University's existence.

It is still fashionable to believe the Church and both the
Universities to have passed the whole of these hundred years in a
species of post-prandial slumber.  Colleges are said to have become
mere port-drinking societies; and the daily life of the Cathedral
Chapters has been described quite as tersely and as disobligingly by
numerous writers.  Truly, the manners of the time were not over nice;
but the impartial student of morals can well trace throughout the
century a steady, if slow, revival from that dire sort of profligacy
which marked the social life of the Stuart period.  For the first
time since the age of the Tudors, English architecture and the other
arts not only revived, but attained the dignity of a conscious and
coherent style.  Gainsborough, Romney, Reynolds took the place once
filled by such as Lely.  Wren, Hawksmoor, Vanbrugh, Adam gave to many
an English building a fame which has not been confined to these
islands.  An intelligent taste in furniture, plate, porcelain, and
fabrics became almost general in decent society.  Music was widely
cultivated, and literary effusions which did not conform, however
dully, to the accepted models of the day found neither publisher nor
reader.

Every merit and, it must be admitted, every demerit of the age is
observable in the life of the University during these hundred years.
Certainly there was a prodigious decay in University ceremonial, and
the antiquaries shook their heads not perhaps without reason.  Poor
Hearne, noting the first Shrove-Tuesday morning on which the ancient
"Pancake bell" did not ring in Oxford, ventured upon the aphorism:
"When laudable old customs alter, 'tis a sign learning dwindles".
Baker, Cole, and Gunning at Cambridge were doomed to see many
cherished quaintnesses pass from the daily life of the academy.  The
ceremonies attending the Creation of Doctors in the several Faculties
were gradually shorn of their symbolic splendour.  These had involved
in each case the use of a Ring and a Book.  A candidate for a
Doctorate in Law might be seen at such times to engage in a whispered
colloquy with the Professor of his Faculty.  This, perhaps the most
picturesque and most formal part of the ceremony of Creation, was
known as "solving a question in the ear of the Professor".  Good
Master Gunning could not have failed to take pleasure in the
circumstances which attended the University Sermon on Tuesday in
Holy-week.  On this day the sermon was preached, not in Great St.
Mary's, but in the Anglo-Saxon Church of St. Benet.  Before the
sermon the preacher was directed to say: "John Meer, Esquire Bedell,
long since of this University, gave a tenement situate in this
parish; in consideration whereof the sermon is here this day.  He
left a small remembrance to the officers of this University provided
they were present at the Commemoration; and was also not unmindful of
the poor in the Tolbooth and Spittal-house."  At the conclusion of
the sermon a distribution was made of this "small remembrance".  It
worked out at three shillings and fourpence for the preacher,
sixpence for the Vice-Chancellor, and fourpence each for the other
dignitaries.  A disbursement of three shillings covered the other
part of this amiable bequest!

[Illustration: THE MARKET PLACE]

During the whole of this period the University exercised its ancient
right of supervising all weights and measures.  Officers known as
Taxors performed the necessary testing, and at such times were
authorized to destroy any faulty measures which came under their
observation.  There existed, too, for the punishment of disorderly
women, a University prison or bridewell called "the Spinning House",
and one of the duties of the Proctors consisted in the visitation and
inspection of any quarter of the town or its immediate environs in
which vice was reputed to lurk.  The Spinning House existed, as a
building, within the recollection of the writer.  It stood on ground
now occupied by the Fire Station in Regent Street.  These particular
jurisdictions and the fact that the Vice-Chancellor took precedence
of the Mayor at all public functions constituted the chief ground for
that ill feeling between Town and Gown which was a notorious feature
of Cambridge life even as late as 1850.  The eighteenth century in
Cambridge actually opened with a singularly unseemly fracas between
the Municipal and University authorities.  The Mayor himself and two
of the Aldermen were implicated.  The circumstances may be gathered
from the "humble submission" of the former, dated October 2, 1705, in
which he pleads guilty to having "denied unto Sir John Ellys, the
Vice-Chancellor, the precedence in the joynt seat at the upper end of
the guildhall ... which refusal was the occasion of a great deal of
contempt and indignity offered by some rude persons to the said
Vice-Chancellor and his attendants".  The "submission" of Mr. Francis
Perry and his colleague followed in due course.  These gentlemen
owned to having opposed the Vice-Chancellor, "whereby divers unworthy
affronts and indignities were occasioned the said Vice-Chancellor".
Their submission did not come for the asking.  Till they were made,
however, the University authorities had "discommuned" half the
townsfolk: which meant that an undergraduate who dared to deal with
the burgesses might be sent down, whilst a graduate, for the same
conduct, might be deprived of his degrees.  This jurisdiction is
still retained.

During this century sport became a prominent and important feature of
University life.  No longer confined, as were the students of an
earlier day, to the precincts of the University, nor fenced about
with clerical rules aiming at an almost monkish propriety, graduates
and undergraduates began to ride, hunt, and shoot over the
countryside.  Towards the close of the century the crowd of "persons
of quality" who attached themselves to the University as Noblemen or
Fellow Commoners necessarily included a number of "raffish" spirits,
who cared little for the convenience of others.  A satirical
advertisement touching this question appeared in the _Cambridge
Chronicle_ for 30 August, 1787, in which the neighbouring farmers,
after announcing that their corn is in many places still standing,
"beg the favour of the Cambridge gunners, coursers, and poachers,
whether gentlemen, barbers, or gyps of Colleges", to let them get
home their crops; and they continue: "If we might breed on our own
premises a bird or a hare for ourselves, and have a day's shooting
for our landlords, or our own friends, we should acknowledge it a
great indulgence and politeness!"  But a good deal of miscellaneous
sport could be had within actual hail of the Colleges.  "In going
over land now occupied by Downing Terrace," says Gunning, "you
generally got five or six shot at snipe.  Crossing the Leys you
entered on Cow Fen.  This abounded with snipes.  Walking through the
osier bed on the Trumpington side of the brook you frequently met
with a partridge and now and then a pheasant."  But, for the
undergraduates and the juniors generally, there were amusements
enough.  Though expressly forbidden, cockfighting was popular; and
there were more gaming, taverning, and the like diversions than
sober-minded persons could be expected to approve of.  Not only the
students, but the seniors fell into cliques or sets each with its
favourite coffee-house, where one might peruse the news sheets, make
a bet, or pick a quarrel.  Clubs, for the most part of an avowedly
convivial nature, sprang into being, some of which, like The True
Blue, remain to this day.

With the seniors, horse-exercise and bowls were popular pastimes.
The Cambridge bowling greens were, and are, justly celebrated; and
agreeable riding was to be had in most directions out of Cambridge.
Along "The Backs" the mounting stones put up at this time may still
be seen.  Those Fellows of Colleges who held livings or curacies just
outside the town rode to and from their cures in the performance of
their duties.  Other folk, like Dr. Samuel Peck, rode daily to the
town on matters of private business.  It is recorded of this worthy
member of Trinity College that he gave advice on legal subjects for
nothing.  "Sam Peck never takes a fee," he would say.  But he was
wont to add that he saw no objection to a "present" in return for his
services.  Thus presents--mostly in kind--invariably followed upon
any disbursement of his legal knowledge.  The figure of Sam Peck,
mounted on his horse and loaded with gifts, is preserved for us in a
print now somewhat scarce, but of which a copy hangs in the smaller
Combination Room at Trinity.  This charming picture is also
interesting as showing that for a celibate Fellow of a College in
those days the present of a pair of lady's stays was not thought
wholly unsuitable.  Fellows of Colleges, it should be borne in mind,
were by statute debarred from matrimony; and, saving the case of some
few Civilians, i.e. graduates in Civil Law, they were bound to take
Holy Orders.  Thus were the Universities filled with numbers of
gentlemen who in order to teach pagan literature on a comfortable
stipend, had been forced to assume the garb and too often the duties
of the Christian priesthood.  To give them their due, however, they
met the statutable requirements of the place with a fortitude which
never sought to escape the gibes of those professed cynics in which
the age abounded; and there is surely a healthy candour in the answer
which a young Cambridge clergyman returned to Mr. Gunning's
congratulations on his appointment to a convenient living.  "My
predecessor," said he, "was a man of my own age, but was
providentially attacked with gout in the stomach, and died before he
could receive medical attention."

[Illustration: LIBRARY STAIRCASE, ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE]

The eighteenth century was pre-eminently an age of oddities.  Just as
people collected books, china, and rare prints, so in a sense they
collected men, and delighted to record whatever was whimsical in
their fellow creatures.  The reminiscences of Henry Gunning, sometime
Esquire Bedell, teem with delightful anecdotes.  To students of men
and manners, it is one of the best books in the language.  Its
comparative rarity must excuse the present writer for drawing so
largely upon it.  Of Gunning's recollections of the seniors of his
young days none are better than his stories of Dr. Samuel Ogden.  Dr.
Ogden took his first degree as early as 1737, his D.D. in 1753, and
was appointed Professor of Geology in 1764.  Visitors to the Round
Church may like to hear of him, for there was he wont to preach.  He
was extremely fond of the pleasures of the table; and, while it is
not expressly stated of him, there seems good cause to believe that
like that fine old exciseman immortalized by Hawthorne in his preface
to _The Scarlet Letter_, "there were flavours on his palate which had
lingered there not less than sixty years".  His was the saying: "A
goose is a silly bird--too much for one and too little for two".  At
a dinner party, on a dish of ruffs and reeves coming up very much
underdone, he answered his hostess's enquiry as to their merit by
observing, "They are admirable, madam, _raw_!  What must they have
been had they been _roasted_?"  When dining at Wimpole with Lord
Hardwick, High Steward of the University, the butler, in mistake for
champagne--then a great rarity--handed round glasses of pale brandy.
Lord Hardwick himself instantly detected the error, but was too late
to prevent Dr. Ogden emptying his glass.  Lord Hardwick could not
suppress an exclamation of surprise.  "I did not mention it to you,
my lord," said Ogden, "because I felt it my duty to take whatever you
thought fit to offer me, if not with pleasure, at least in silence."

It is a true saying that "where there be strange folk there will be
stranger doings", and the history of Cambridge in the eighteenth
century is charged with accounts of the oddest happenings.  Could
anything be more extraordinary, for example, than the circumstances
which attended the election of Provost George at King's College in
January, 1743?  Twenty-two of the Fellows were for George, sixteen
for Thackeray, and ten for Chapman, who was the Tory candidate.  A
regular faction fight ensued.  The election was bound by statute to
take place in the Chapel, and there the Fellows remained in conclave
for thirty-one hours.  Neither side would give way, and until they
had agreed on their man none were permitted to stir out of the
Chapel, "nor none permitted to enter", says a historian in 1753.  An
unsigned letter from Cambridge, quoted by Sir Henry Maxwell Lyte in
his history of Eton College, gives a graphic account of these
incidents: "The Fellows went into Chapel on Monday before noon in the
morning as the statute directs.  After prayer and sacraments they
began to vote....  A friend of mine, a curious man, tells me he took
a survey of his brothers at the hour of two in the morning, and that
never was a curious or more diverting spectacle.  Some, wrapped in
blankets, erect in their stalls like mummies; others asleep on
cushions like so many gothic tombs; here a red cap over a wig; there
a face lost in the cape of a rug.  One blowing a chafing-dish with a
surpliced sleeve; another warming a little negus or sipping 'Coke
upon Littleton' i.e. tent and brandy.  Thus did they combat the cold
of that frosty night, which has not killed many of them to my
infinite surprise."  It is worth noting this determination of the
Fellows of King's to act statutably, for the air was pretty full of
unstatutable proceedings afterwards.  It was apparently as a protest
against some irregularity of this kind that one of the Scrutators
(Mr. Tyrwhitt of Jesus) refused his key to the Vice-Chancellor when
that dignitary desired to fix the University seal to a loyal address
to the Crown on the subject of the American Rebellion.  Dr. Farmer,
however, was not a man to be baulked by trifles.  He obtained the
services of a blacksmith, and the seal was put to its appointed
purpose without further delay.

[Illustration: FELLOWS' GARDEN AND POND, CHRIST'S COLLEGE]

Dr. Farmer was Master of Emmanuel, and one of the best known men of
his time.  With Malone, Reed, and Steevens he formed a coterie which
was known in Cambridge as "the Shakespeare gang".  Farmer knew the
Elizabethans by heart, and he made Emmanuel Parlour, as the
Combination Room of the College was then called, a centre of literary
table-talk.  His was an amiable personality.  Though a strong Tory,
he never allowed political bias to impair his friendships.  "This is
a Whig pipe, Master Gunning," he would say, with a sly twinkle.  "It
has a twist the wrong way."  It was in Emmanuel Parlour that Dr.
Johnson made one of his best sallies.  The story is told by Isaac
Reed, who was present.  Someone asked why county squires should be
addicted to rural sport above everything else.  "Sir," said Dr.
Johnson, "I have found out the reason of it, and the reason is that
they feel the vacuity which is in them less when they are in motion
than when they are at rest."  It was during Dr. Farmer's mastership
that Emmanuel celebrated the two hundredth anniversary of its
foundation.  For some days before the actual feast which was to take
place in honour of the occasion, the inhabitants of the College were
delighted with the spectacle of several "lively turtles" disporting
themselves in tubs of water.  William Pitt and the Earl of Euston,
then the Members of Parliament for the University, were present at
the banquet.  The convivialities were kept up in the Parlour till a
very late hour.  Here Dr. Randall, the Professor of Music, "was
called upon for his celebrated song in the character of a drunken
man.  The representation was so faithfully given that Mr. Pitt was
completely deceived, and expressed some anxiety lest the worthy
professor should meet with an accident when leaving the College."

But good Dr. Farmer was never more in his element than when sitting
in what was called "the Critics' Row" at the Playhouse specially set
up during the weeks in which Stourbridge Fair held the attention of
the three counties.  Mention has already been made of this celebrated
Fair.  During the eighteenth century it was by far the largest Fair
in the country.  Every trade was represented, and here many of the
good folk of Cambridgeshire, Huntingdon, and the Isle of Ely made the
principal part of their household purchases for the year.  People
came from London and elsewhere to be present at the opening
festivities.  The declaration of the Fair was a matter of University
as well as civic ceremonial.  The Vice-Chancellor and the other
University officers, attended by the noblemen and other notables,
drove to the Fair, which was duly proclaimed by the Registrary of the
University.  The Senior Proctor provided cakes and wine at the Senate
House before starting.  To the University dignitaries and their
guests was set apart a certain Tiled Booth, where they dined.  The
menu at the Vice-Chancellor's table never varied.  It consisted of a
large dish of herrings, a neck of pork roasted, a plum pudding, a leg
of pork boiled, a pease pudding, a goose, and a huge apple pie, while
a round of beef graced the centre of the board.  Before the end of
the century this dinner had degenerated into a sort of oyster
luncheon.  During this and the Midsummer or "Pot" Fair there was a
deal of drunken and riotous behaviour not confined, alas! to the
townsfolk or the peasant classes.  It is reported that tipsy Masters
of Arts, many Fellows of Colleges, and clergymen were to be seen with
linked arms jostling the passers-by.

To read but this side of University history one might suppose an
academy in which such things were possible would hardly be able to
claim to have done much for learning during this period.  But
Cambridge was no worse as a school for manners than was any other
place of education at this time; while the period is one to which we
look back to-day as the age of Newton, Bentley, and Person,--names
which alone are sufficient to raise the University into the first
place as a seat of learning.  The poets, Prior, Gray, Coleridge, and
Wordsworth had their education in Cambridge before the century
closed.  So also did Laurence Sterne.  Halifax, the two Walpoles,
Lord Camden, Lord Chesterfield, Lord Ellenborough, Lord Bathurst,
Lord Thurloe, Pitt the younger, Castlereagh, Wilberforce, Denman were
some of the illustrious Cambridge men who found places in the great
world of that day; while Paley and Charles Simeon were prominent in
the religious life of the time.

Many buildings of importance, all designed in good taste, grew up in
Cambridge during this century.  The library of Samuel Pepys,
including the manuscript of his celebrated _Diary_, was left to his
old College of Magdalene in 1703, and reached Cambridge in 1725, when
it was placed in what are now called the Fellows' buildings, a range
built to do honour to the bequest.  To the University Library,
enriched by King George I's present of Bishop Moore's collection, was
added a new wing designed in the Classical style.  The Senate House
as we now see it is an eighteenth-century building, and a fine
example of its period.  At King's College the Fellows' building by
Gibbs is another notable addition to the architecture of the place,
and the alterations at Clare, Trinity Hall, and Emmanuel are all good
of their kind.

The beauty of Cambridge does not consist in broad streets or in
imposing public buildings.  The greater Colleges lie with their
gatehouses towards the town, their courts and lawns stretching
towards the river, which is spanned by their private bridges.  Beyond
the river the eye is charmed with a vista of tall trees and flowery
gardens.  In every College there lurk particular treasures.  Corpus
Christi, with its old Court abutting on the Saxon Church of St.
Benet, where in bygone days the scholars were wont to worship, can
show the hall in which Kit Marlowe dined and Parker presided.  This
College has one of the most interesting libraries in the University,
and one of the best collections of plate in the country.  Jesus
College has an unique chapel.  Norman and Early English masonry, fine
old stalls, and a mediæval organ may here be seen, and, for those who
care for such things, there are windows by Morris and Burne-Jones.
Examples of Wren's work in Cambridge have already been noticed.  The
bridge built from his designs at St. John's is illustrated in the
present volume.  No one should miss all there is to see in this
stately College.  The Combination Room is a typical Tudor gallery;
and on Feast Nights, when illuminated with wax candles in silver
sconces, it presents a picture unforgetably beautiful.  Trinity and
St. John's are the only Colleges possessed of statuary.  In the
anti-chapel of the former College the statues of Newton, Bacon,
Barrow, Macaulay, Whewell, and Tennyson form a striking group.  That
of Newton is by Roubiliac, and some busts by this admirable master
may be seen in the College library, where too is the celebrated
statue of Byron by Thorwaldsen, and numerous enrichments of the
bookcases by the hand of Grinling Gibbons.  This library, which is
one of the principal Collegiate libraries in Europe, has over 100,000
volumes.  Among its manuscripts are the celebrated Canterbury
Psalter, a volume of Milton manuscripts (including the first sketch
of _Paradise Lost_), the manuscript of Tennyson's _In Memoriam_, that
of Thackeray's _Esmond_, and several Byron manuscripts.  The library
of St. John's College is second only to that at Trinity.  It is
approached by a staircase of singular beauty.  At Magdalene is the
Pepys Library; and the libraries of Peterhouse, Trinity Hall, and
Queens' are good specimens of mediæval college collections.  The
University has two public libraries.  Of these the University Library
proper enjoys the right to a copy of every book printed in the realm.
It numbers some 500,000 volumes, and is rich in every kind of
literature.  The rule which allows M.A.'s and certain B.A.'s to
borrow books, and which gives readers access to the shelves, makes
this library, as Lord Acton said, "the only useful library in
Europe".  The library of the Fitzwilliam Museum includes a remarkable
collection of musical manuscripts, the most valuable of which are
manuscripts of Bach, Handel, and Beethoven.

During the last hundred years Cambridge has been enriched with
numerous laboratories and several collegiate institutions.  Of the
latter the most important is Downing College, built in 1805.  Two
professors have their maintenance here: one of Medicine, the other of
the Laws of England.  On Downing property the present Law Schools,
Geological Museum, and other of the more recent habitations of
science have been built.  The great Cavendish Laboratory, to which
the seventh Duke of Devonshire was a conspicuous benefactor, was
built in 1874.  Almost every branch of science now possesses its
special museum, while art and the study of antiquities are served by
the Fitzwilliam and the Archæological Museums.

Cambridge to-day is a large and complex community: the undergraduate
population alone has reached nearly four thousand souls.  The Senate,
or body of M.A.'s having voting powers in the government of the
University, numbers over seven thousand persons; while the total
number of members of the University who still keep their names "on
the boards" stands at 14,758.  Every kind of study, from astral
chemistry to engineering, finds among this mass of people some
professed teachers and eager students.

All this has not been a matter of natural growth.  The nineteenth
century saw far-reaching changes imposed upon the University; though
for some time, most Fellows of Colleges were still required to take
Orders, and the rule of celibacy was enforced.  By the removal of
these restrictions and by the abolition of Religious Tests, the
University has reaped much benefit.  But it has not been all gain.
The amenities of College life in many of the smaller societies have
been considerably interfered with, and that "corporate sense" which
has hitherto been the strength of the college system has been
weakened.  On the other hand, the additions which have been made to
the recognized fields of intellectual activity have indisputably made
for the utility of Cambridge as a centre of education; though it is
possible that the demand for young teachers, both public and private,
by drawing men away from private study, may tend to lessen the value
of the University as a contemplative body.  Of this danger not
everyone seems unconscious.

[Illustration: CLARE COLLEGE FROM THE BACKS]

As the seventeenth century was the age of Bacon, and the eighteenth
century that of Newton, so the nineteenth century has been called the
age of Darwin.  Thus has Cambridge sent three of her sons to
revolutionize the study of Natural Philosophy.  Among Cambridge
scientists of modern times are Adams, Airy, Herschell,
Clarke-Maxwell, Stokes, Lords Kelvin, Rayleigh, Avebury, Sir James
Dewar, and Sir Joseph Thompson.  Cambridge as a school of medicine
has been celebrated ever since the time of Caius.  Its importance at
the present moment is largely owing to the life and labour of the
late Sir Michael Foster.  Numerous Cambridge men have held
professorships at Oxford during the century.  The names of Maine, Sir
F. Pollock, and Mr. Sidgwick at once occur to the mind; and to-day
the chairs of Astronomy, Physics, Botany, Classical Archæology, and
English Literature in that University are occupied by Cambridge men.
From Cambridge, too, come the Astronomer Royal, his immediate
predecessor, and most of the provincial and colonial astronomers.

Popular fallacies die hard.  But it is indeed remarkable that
Cambridge should be supposed to give herself over to mathematical
studies, when it is remembered that she produced in Bentley and
Person the two greatest classics that England ever knew; while in the
nineteenth century Munro, Jebb, and Headlam have won European
reputations as classical scholars; and, of the older Universities,
Cambridge alone confers a purely classical degree.  The Cambridge
School of Theology is associated with the names of Westcott,
Lightfoot, and Hort.

Modern Cambridge has been prolific in men of letters: Byron,
Macaulay, Thackeray, Kinglake, Tennyson, Fitzgerald, Grote, Kingsley,
Seely, F. D. Maurice, Samuel Butler, Leslie Stephen, and Maitland are
names taken at random.  The list of her public men is a long one and
includes the great Whig peers from Palmerston, Melbourne, Grey, and
Lansdowne to such men as the late Duke of Devonshire and the late
Earl Spencer: the senior branch of the House of Cecil has been
uniformly faithful to Cambridge since the days of the great Lord
Burleigh.  The Manners family have been as stoutly Cambridge; and the
late Duke of Rutland, better known as Lord John Manners, was a
familiar figure in the University.  It is a Cambridge College that
can claim at this moment the Speaker, the Lord Chief Justice, the
Leader of the House of Lords, the Leader of the Opposition in the
Commons, the Viceroy of India, the Ex-Viceroy, and the retiring
Governor-General of Canada.

Cambridge as a home of legal studies has been famous since the
sixteenth century: Lyndhurst, Cranworth, Pollock, Fitzjames Stephen
are legal luminaries of modern times.  Trinity Hall is the College
with which the study of law is particularly associated.  For two
hundred years this College practically controlled the Court of
Arches, which until the nineteenth century was some way advanced took
cognizance of all Probate and Admiralty cases, as well as of causes
arising out of ecclesiastical jurisdictions.  For some time the
Masters and Fellows appointed the Dean of Arches, and the Master
enjoyed a right to rooms in Doctors' Commons.  Among learned
Civilians who have presided over the destinies of "the Hall" are Sir
James Exton, Sir Nathaniel Lloyd, Sir Edward Simpson, and Sir William
Wynne.  The last of this order (for the Court of Arches lost its
civil jurisdiction at this time) was Sir Herbert Jenner Fust, whose
name will long be remembered in connection with the celebrated Gorham
judgment.  Sir Herbert was succeeded in the Mastership by the late
Sir Henry Summer Maine, of Pembroke College, sometime Corpus
Professor of Jurisprudence at Oxford.

The reputation of a College for this or that study is, however, less
precious to its more thoughtful inmates than are those associations
with famous men long since dead which cling to every grove and every
court in Cambridge: to Byron's pool at Grantchester; to Milton's
mulberry tree in the Fellows' garden at Christ's; to the little tower
at Queens' in which Erasmus studied; to the rooms occupied by Gray at
Pembroke; to Newton's at Trinity; or to Wordsworth's at St. John's.
Sometimes such traditions are well founded; but if they be not, what
matter?  The strength and value of such things lie in their power to
cause even the youngest of us to see humanity as a grave pageant, of
which we may be witnesses though only for a space.  But membership of
an English University carries with it experiences more personal and
more intimate than these.  A man may deem himself to be bestowing
scant notice upon his surroundings, and yet there are a hundred
impressions made upon him by sights and sounds, in these his student
days, which pass pattern-wise into the fabric of his nature.  Other
phases of College life are remembered in more detail: hours passed in
anxious study for the schools; boisterous gatherings when, with old
wine in young bellies, almost anything seemed worth the saying; eager
struggles in the field or upon the river, when the glory of the
College really did seem to depend upon the muscles of some eight or
fifteen carefully-dieted young men.  One recalls these states of mind
as facts; but they have no corresponding values in the world of
sense.  The really haunting memories are those of particular
firesides; of the outlook from this or that window seat; of a moonlit
court in summer-time, of the scent of flowers there and of the babble
of the fountain; of choir music by taper light in winter; and of the
ordered chimes leisurely perpetuating their Tudor cadences.  Such
thoughts, such recollections

                      "The past bestows on us,
  Like showers along the dusty roads of life,
  Or welcome sunbeams on some bleak grey morn,
  Cheering the soul in her long pilgrimage".











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