The Project Gutenberg eBook of Tea-Blending as a Fine Art, by Joseph M. Walsh

There is no article handled by the grocer which demands greater attention, engages more of his time, or has a more important bearing upon the success of his business than Tea, as it stands in many respects far ahead of all the other commodities in commanding and maintaining patronage, as well as in attracting and retaining trade for numerous other articles, and at the same time yielding a larger margin of profit to the dealer. Gain being the fundamental object of all business transactions, and as tea to the grocer plays such an essential part in determining this profit, we may be excused if, in considering the article from a purely practical standpoint, we urge the relation which it has to the success of the dealer, and who, as a general rule, experiences much more difficulty in the judicious selection of his Tea than in any other staple he trades in. The cause of this difficulty is obvious to dealers in Tea in general, being entirely due to the numerous varieties and almost innumerable grades, flavors and characters of the commodity with which he is confronted and to be selected from in order to satisfy the diversity of tastes and various preferences to be catered to in order to please each individual taste and preference. It therefore requires no ordinary skill or brief experience to make the proper selection or combination to suit the consumer under these trying circumstances.

The acquisition of such skill or knowledge, for all practical purposes, is not, however, quite as difficult as is supposed by many dealers, it being fairly obtained by an intelligent study of the leading varieties and grades most in demand in the country or section of consumption, in addition to a few simple and inexpensive experiments by the dealer in order to familiarize himself with the leading characters and values of the different varieties, grades and flavors of the Teas best adapted to each particular class or section of the country in which he may be doing business. Little is known, comparatively, in this country particularly, of the art or principle of blending or “mixing” of Teas. The American dealer and consumer alike being averse to the practice as a general rule, regarding it as about on a parity with the other too numerous forms of adulteration and sophistication now in vogue, not only in the countries of consumption, but also in those of production. Such objections, however, are entirely erroneous, as it is an acknowledged fact that a combination of different varieties of wheat make better flour, the same being true of coffee and many other staples of diet and drink, so that the practice of blending Teas for the consumer, if properly understood and skillfully and judiciously performed, would prove a more satisfactory one to the consumer, and at the same time a more profitable one to the dealer. The object of blending being, not as the Tea-using public imagines to lower the standard or reduce the cost at the expense of quality, but to produce a measurably better Tea and obtain a fuller and heavier liquor in addition to a much finer and more desirable flavor than that yielded by any single variety when used alone. A Tea, in short, giving better satisfaction to the consumer at a more moderate price, and at the same time allowing a[9] better margin of profit to the dealer without lowering his standard of quality. To illustrate, a dealer may already be selling a Tea to his customers, possessing a pleasing and suitable flavor, but be lacking in body or too light in liquor, whereas by his adding to it a small proportion of one or two other varieties possessing these requisite properties the defect is easily and inexpensively remedied, and a fuller-liquied, heavier-bodied, richer-flavored infusion is produced; the drawing and drinking qualities of the Tea being improved all round without extra cost to the dealer or increase of price to the consumer. It must therefore follow that by the skillful and judicious mixing or blending of a number of Teas, each differing in variety or grade, a more uniform, pleasing and palatable Tea, that is, one richer in liquor, heavier in body and more aromatic in flavor, can be produced by this now acknowledged principle at a more moderate cost to dealer and consumer than can otherwise be obtained from any single variety or grade of Tea.

The idea of blending Teas originally arose from the experience incidentally gained by some old and life-long Tea dealers, that a beverage richer in liquor, more pleasing in flavor, more satisfactory in price to the consumer and less costly to the dealer, could be produced from a number of the different varieties or grades when skillfully amalgamated or judiciously combined than could otherwise be obtained from any single sort when used alone. No sooner was this experience confirmed than the “mixing” or blending of Teas was generally resorted to by many of those who had the dispensing of the commodity to the public. But while some dealers had a marked success in this branch of the Tea business from the start, others again who attempted to practice it failed completely in their efforts to produce any[10] satisfactory results to themselves or their customers, the end accomplished being instead of an improvement an injury and detriment to the quality and value of the Teas so combined, more often to such an extent that the single and regular variety of Tea in demand would have pleased better at less labor, time and cost to the dealer. The cause of this failure was, however, due entirely and alone to the want of that necessary training, experience or intelligent knowledge which would enable the unskilled blender to understand the peculiar characteristics and affinities of the different varieties and various grades of the Teas which are improved by combination, and their component parts, as well as to avoid those which are deteriorated by the amalgamation. The knowledge and skill required for this very particular and precise branch of the Tea business being only attained in its perfection by numerous tests and constant experiments, which are best performed by the admixture of from two to five—or more in many instances—small samples of Tea differing, frequently materially, in variety, character and quality, and alternately changing, altering and substituting the varieties and proportions of the same until the dealer has finally succeeded in producing a Tea unique in character, identified with himself, and differing in every respect from that of any Tea offered or sold by his competitors, the liquor, flavor and aroma of which will prove more pleasing and satisfactory in quality and price to his patrons, and at a more moderate cost to himself.

Time and experience have proved beyond question that skillful and judicious tea blending will be found to amply repay for all the study, labor and expense bestowed on it by the dealer, as the chief and only difficulty existing in the art lies in the fact of first finding a combination[11] or combinations that will please the majority of consumers. But it is an egregious mistake to imagine that the successful or profitable blending of teas consists solely in the indiscriminate or injudicious heaping together carelessly and indifferently of two or more varieties or grades of tea in one homogeneous mass without the slightest regard to quantity, quality, affinity, affiliation or assimilation of leaf, liquor, character or flavor of the component parts. While on the contrary the art or principle consists in the proper combining of two or more different varieties or grades of tea intended to form the combination on an at least intelligent or judicious, if not scientific manner, so as to yield a unique or particular tea, of uniform quality, strength, flavor and pungency, at a given price, being at the same time pleasing and satisfactory to the average consumer, and maintaining its standard of quality at all times and under all circumstances.

But while it may be admitted that it is difficult to master the art of successful tea blending thoroughly without the serving of an apprenticeship to the business, and that the combinations that may be found in it are almost kaleidoscopic in their range, still even the veriest novice need not spoil good tea by injudicious mixing, as all that is required is a little study and a few simple rules carefully followed, although these cannot be substituted entirely for years of practical experience in such a difficult and at the present time most essential branch of the tea business, but will nevertheless prevent any serious error, and at the same time insure a fair measure of success to the most inexperienced in the art.

The Teas of commerce are classified as China, Japan, India, Ceylon and Java Teas, but are generally divided into Green and Black Teas, under which terms they are best known to the public. They are again sub-divided into numerous varieties and grades, with names derived from the districts of production or indicative of their age, make or quality, these numerous applications being almost entirely of Chinese origin.

CHINA TEAS

Are divided into Black and Green, the former comprising Oolongs, Congous, Souchongs and Scented Teas, the latter including Imperials, Gunpowders, Hysons, Young Hysons and Twankay or Hyson-skin Teas.

OOLONG TEAS

Are sub-divided into Ankois, Amoys, Foochows, Formosas, Saryune and Pekoe-Oolongs, grading from lowest to highest in the order named.

Ankoi Oolong—Is a doubtful species of the genus tea and said to be prepared solely from the leaves of a shrub closely resembling but widely distinct from those of the true tea plant. The leaf is rough and coarse, reddish-black in color, indifferently prepared, and ragged in general appearance, while the liquor is dark-brown, oily or earthy in flavor and bitterly astringent to the taste. It is generally used for mixing with low-grade Amoys, to which it imparts a wild, rank or weedy flavor, and should be avoided by the dealer altogether.

Amoy Oolongs—Embrace Kokew, Mohea and Ningyong Oolong teas and are fairly good teas for blending[16] purposes, many of them drawing and drinking exceedingly well in the cup. The leaf, while large and somewhat coarse in appearance, is well prepared as a rule, while the liquor is clear, strong and frequently pungent. The poorer grades, however, possess a wild or herby flavor, strongly objected to by the majority of tea consumers.

Foochow Oolong—Ranks among the best of the black teas of China. The leaf of the finer grades being black and silky in appearance, rich and mellow in liquor and fragrant in flavor, while the medium and lower grades are somewhat larger and looser in make they possess splendid cup qualities, making the most suitable foundation for all blends in this country, being useful and serviceable for the purpose.

Formosa Oolong—Is unique in leaf, liquor and flavor, differing widely in character and flavor from the former varieties. They possess a rich, fragrant aroma, the leaf being very pleasing in the hand, evenly curled and crapy in texture, and impart tone and character to any combination in which they may be introduced.

Saryune and Pekoe Oolongs—Are very rare sorts in this market, the latter deriving its trade-name from being liberally sprinkled with Pekoe-tipped leaves. They are somewhat large and bold in style, evenly curled and pleasing in appearance. The infusion being dark brown in color, heavy and full in body and very fragrant in flavor.

CONGOU TEAS.

Congou Teas are grown principally in the Bohea hills in China, and are known to trade in this country as English Breakfast Teas. They are divided into Kaisow or Red-leaf and Moning or Black-leaf Teas, and are a[17] distinct variety differing in color, liquor and flavor from the Oolong sorts.

Kaisow—or Red-leaf Congous, comprise, Chingwos, Seumoos, Suey-kuts, Saryunes, Sin-chunes, Cheong-soo, Cheong-lok, So-how and Yung-how. The leaf is reddish-black in color, well and firmly made; the liquor rich-red or wine-color, and flavor pungent but pleasing to the taste. Their special feature is their delicate and to a high degree fragrant flavor, which they impart to other Teas in combination, provided the others are not too strong or coarse.

Moning—or Black-leaf Congous include Ning-chows, Oonfas, Oonams, Oopacks, Kintucks, Kee-muns, Kiukangs, Panyongs, Paklins and Paklums, and are black in color, stylish in make; the finer grades being Pekoe-tipped and flavored. The infusion is also dark-red or wine-colored, but delicate and aromatic, making very useful Teas for blending purposes, combining advantageously with any and all the other varieties.

SOUCHONG TEAS

Are among the finest and richest of the Black Tea sorts of China, but are limited in supply, being chiefly prepared from the youngest leaves of the earlier pickings. They are known to trade as Lapsing, Padrae, Pekoe, Tonquam, Canton and Oolong-Souchongs. The leaf is long, flat, handsome and “crapy” in texture, finely and artistically curled, being only lightly fired. They yield a rich wine-colored liquor, with a fragrant flavor entirely peculiar to themselves, and described as “tarry” in trade, which, when not too pronounced, adds rather than detracts from their value. The product of the later pickings are of less strength and flavor, but are still smooth and pleasing in liquor and flavor, making very[18] serviceable teas for mixing owing to their general intrinsic properties.

SCENTED TEAS

Form a special class of the Chinese product, and comprise Foochow, Canton and Macao Scented Teas. They are sub-divided into Capers, Pekoes, Pouchongs, Orange, Flowery and Pouchong Pekoes, and are very fragrant, being highly scented with the leaves, flowers, blossoms and roots of other plants, such as that of the Iris, Jessamine, Gardenia, Chloranthus and Oleofragrans. They are principally prepared from the largest but most succulent leaves of the first pickings and cured by a series of brisk firings and rollings. The dried leaf is finely made, long and evenly folded, and the infusion is wine-colored, piquant and aromatic, from which fact consumers not accustomed to their use erroneously imagine that they are much stronger and more exciting than the Oolong and Green Teas sorts, and should be used only very sparingly in blending.

Caper—Is so termed from its small, round leaf resembling capers, and is prepared from the youngest and tenderest leaves of the tea plant. The infusion is of a rich wine-color, pungent and aromatic in flavor, forming what is termed a bouquet.

Pekoe—Signifies in Chinese “White down,” applied to the whitish or downy substance at the end of the leaves. It is usually prepared from the young leaf buds just expanding, and is a very much overrated variety.

Pouchong—Is a bold, rough-looking leaf, dull black in color and peculiar in scent, the latter being imparted to it by the admixture of the seeds of the Chulan flower.

Orange Pekoe—Is a long, flat, even-leaf tea, jet black in color and containing yellowish, downy tops at the ends, from which it derives its trade name.

Flowery Pekoe—Is a smaller but more evenly-folded leaf, olive-colored with ends ornamented with whitish or velvety tips, being also very highly scented with the flowers or blossoms of other plants.

In some of the Chinese districts the scenting material is added to the tea during the firing process and afterward separated by sifting, but is, however, more generally introduced into the tea after it is prepared and ready for packing. It is spread over the tip of the tea and allowed to remain there for at least a day, or until it becomes strongly impregnated with their moisture, and then removed, the duration depending in a great measure on the character of the scent employed.

GREEN TEAS

Include Moyunes, Hychows, Fychows, Tienkes, Tayshings and Pingsueys, district names, and grading in the order named.

Moyune—Is the most valuable intrinsically and commercially, being far superior to all the others in make, color, draw and drink. The leaf is firmly rolled, natural green in color and extremely uniform in appearance, while the liquor is clear, brisk and pungent in flavor, forming a splendid variety for blending with any tea.

Hychows—Are much inferior to the former in leaf and liquor, the infusion, although darker in color, is lighter in body and devoid of any pronounced flavor.

Fychows—Are generally bold and rough in leaf, dull-green in color, dark and heavy in liquor and astringent in flavor, being in the whole a very undesirable sort for any purpose.

Tienkes—While long and coarse in make are yet pleasing to the eye, being chiefly sold in style as they will not stand the cup test, the infusion being dark, thick, bitter and frequently smoky in flavor owing to high firing.

Tayshings—Like Tienkes look well in the hand, being fairly well-made and stylish-looking, but are of a leaden-blue color, the result of the facing or coloring matter used to enhance their appearance, while the liquor is dark and muddy and the flavor earthy to the taste.

Pingsueys—Are termed by the Chinese Bastard Tea, being principally prepared from the leaves of some shrub remotely resembling those of the Tea plant. While the leaf is very stylish and firmly made it is of heavy blue color and greasy in appearance owing to the gypsum used in their preparation and are entirely unfit for human use.

What are known as “Canton” and “Country” Green Teas are also spurious Teas, the former being manufactured from spent or exhausted Tea leaves, that is Tea once used, dried, refired and colored with gypsum or Prussian blue. The latter being prepared from the leaves of wild or uncultivated Tea plants.

SUB-VARIETIES.

The Green Teas of China are again sub-divided in Gunpowders, Imperials, Hysons, Young Hysons and Twankays, terms denoting style of make, age or other peculiarity, and are too well known to the trade to need description.

Gunpowder—Is termed by the Chinese “Choo-Cha” or Pearl tea, from its small, round or shotty appearance. It is generally prepared from the smallest and youngest leaves of the green tea plant, its quality corresponding to the picking and district of growth. The product of the first crop is sometimes known as “Pin-head” from its extremely small, round or globular appearance.

Imperial—Derives its trade name from being the style or make of Tea used in the Imperial household and by the Mandarins or wealthier Chinese. That exported is prepared from the larger and older leaves of the respective pickings and rolled in the same manner as the former, from which fact it is also known as “Big Gunpowder” and also as “Pea-leaf.” But while larger and bolder in make it possesses much the same drawing and drinking qualities.

Hyson—Is known to the Chinese as “He-tsien” or “Flourishing Spring” from being picked in the full spring-time, and is large and loosely made, being prepared from the older leaves of each respective picking. It bears the same relation to Young Hyson that Imperial does to Gunpowder and produces the same characteristics, but in a minor degree.

Young Hyson—Is a corruption of the Chinese term, “Yu-tsien,” or Early Spring, from being gathered in the early spring-time, and in make the leaves are extremely small, finely but artistically twisted, almost wirey in texture, being prepared from the youngest and tenderest leaves of the tea plant.

Twankay—Or “Hyson-skin,” is composed chiefly of the largest and oldest leaves of the foregoing varieties that cannot, owing to their coarse or broken condition, be rolled or converted into the former makes. It is a large,[23] loose and flat-leaf tea, varying in color, liquor and flavor, according to the grades from which it is separated.

Considerable mystery and confusion for a long time existed regarding the species of plant yielding the varieties known as Green and Black teas, many authorities claiming that the former was produced from the Green tea plant exclusively, and the latter from the Black tea plant solely, while again it was held by others that both varieties were prepared at pleasure from but one and the same species, the mere difference in color, flavor and effects being due entirely to a disparity in the soil and process of curing. But later and more careful investigation disprove these particular opinions, as while it is now admitted, even by the Chinese themselves, that both kinds may be produced at will from either or both species of the tea plant, it is a popular error to imagine that China produces the two commercial kinds in all districts, as the preparation of the greater proportion of the respective varieties is carried on in widely separated districts of the Empire from corresponding species of the tea plant, different methods being adopted only in the process of curing the two kinds from the first stage. Green teas are prepared and distinguished from Black in such instances by the fact that the former are not fermented as long or fired as high in the process of rolling as the latter. It was also a commonly-received opinion at one time that the distinctive color of Green teas was imparted to them by being cured and fired in copper pans. For this belief, however, there is not the slightest foundation in fact, as copper pans are never used for the purpose of firing tea, repeated experiments and unerring tests having been frequently made by competent experts, but not even in a single instance has any trace of that metal been found in them.

JAPAN TEAS.

In color, flavor and character, Japan Teas are totally distinct from any and all other varieties of Tea known to commerce. They are divided into Panfired, Sundried and Basketfired Teas and Nibs, but are frequently converted into Oolongs, Pekoes, Congous, Imperials, Gunpowder and Young Hyson makes.

Panfired Japan—Is a medium-sized green-leaf Tea, well-curled and presenting an unbroken appearance. It yields a bright clear liquor which remains unchanged in color until quite cold, and possesses a flavor delicate but fragrant in odor. The medium grades, however, are rougher in make, darker in liquor and duller in flavor, while the commoner ones are coarse and unsightly in style, varying in color and somewhat “brassy” or metallic in flavor.

Sundried Japan—Derive their trade-name from being dried in the sun before firing, in order to fix their color more permanently. The leaf is of an olive-green color, small and compactly curled, and the liquor what[26] is known as “toasty” in flavor owing to their thorough fermentation before firing. The lower grade range from a yellowish to a dull-green in color, indifferently made and often “fishy” in taste from the use of fish manure in cultivating.

Basketfired Japan—Is so called from being cured in baskets over a slow fire. The finer grades are long, dark and exceedingly well twisted or curled, clear and bright in the infusion and mellow or “mealy” in flavor, the latter quality making them a very valuable sort for blending with Oolong in the proportions of one part to four of Oolong, or almost any variety into which they are introduced.

Japan Nibs—Are composed of the largest and oldest leaves of the foregoing sorts, and bear the same relation to Japan Teas that Twankay does to Green Teas. In the cheaper and lower-grade blends they make an excellent addition by imparting strength and fullness to the combination, particularly when separated from the higher grades of Japan Teas.

Japan Oolongs—Pekoes, Congous, Imperials, Gunpowder and Hysons differ only from the regular Japan Teas in make, and from being prepared from the same leaf they naturally possess the same general characteristics and cup qualities, but are not produced in any appreciable quantities.

INDIA TEAS.

Principally comprise Assams, Cachars, Darjeelings, Dooars, Deradoons, Kumaons and Chittagongs, ranking in quality in the order named, and are converted into Pekoes, Souchongs, Congous and Pekoe-Souchongs resembling most the Congou sorts of China in make, style, color and general appearance, but many of them being produced from a combination of the China and India Tea plants are hybrid in character, differing widely[30] from their originals. In make and style they are in general longer and narrower in leaf, better curled and more shapely in form than the corresponding Chinese varieties, but contain a much greater excess of tannin which accounts for their superior strength or rather rankness in the infused state.

Assams—Are greyish-black in color, the dried leaf of the finer grades being pekoe-tipped and flavored. The liquor is unusually strong and pungent in addition to being thick and heavy in the cup, but are very useful for forming the base or foundation of all blends among Irish, English or Scotch Tea consumers.

Cachars—Are blacker in color, but not as well made or handsome in appearance. The infusion, however, is softer and mellower, being occasionally what is known as “fruity” in flavor.

Darjeeling—Is a hybrid variety, produced from a cross between the China and India Tea plants and partakes somewhat of the characteristics of both. But, while blacker in leaf, it is not on an average as finely[31] made, and while round and full in body is not as pungent or flavory in the infusion.

Dooars—Approximate more to Cachars in style, color and general appearance, and are strong, rough and coarse in liquor, but pungent and pleasing in flavor, being a serviceable Tea for blending, as it imparts tone and character to any combination in it which it may be used.

Deradoon—Is a high-fired Tea, loosely made and deteriorating rapidly, becoming sour or rancid on exposure to the atmosphere in a very short time. The liquor is frequently “earthy” in taste and somewhat analogous to that of Ankoi Oolong, for which reasons they are not much sought after.

Kumaon—Is generally converted into Gunpowder, Imperial and Hyson Teas, all being prepared from the same leaf, the chief and only difference lying in their make and color, as they still retain all their Indian characteristics of liquor and flavor.

Chittagong—Is thick, heavy and strong in the cup, and what is termed “nutty” in flavor and are considered good, useful Teas for blending purposes from their great strength and positive character.

India Teas in general possess a sharp acid taste not to be found in any of the foregoing varieties, and a distinct but peculiar flavor, rarely liked by American Tea consumers, except when largely tempered with the softer and more mellow liquored Teas of China. In order to neutralize or offset this disagreeable peculiarity, it is at all times necessary to use only the best of the India grades in blending. Another very disagreeable feature of India Teas is that of the formation of an oily or gummy film which settles on top of the liquor after infusion. The loss of flavor and[32] rapid decay in exposure is also greater in India Teas than in most other varieties. The grades most easily affected in this manner being the two highly-fired, light-liquored and open-leaf makes.

CEYLON TEAS.

Ceylon Teas—Are comparatively new Teas to commerce, and are known to trade as Matagalas, Mandulsumas, Rakuwanas, Kanda-loyas, Kandapole and Soocan-duris, but as with India Teas they are chiefly converted into silver and golden Pekoe, Congous, Souchongs and Pekoe-Souchongs. Their leaf, liquor and flavor like their India prototypes varies greatly in style and quality, according to the elevation at which they are grown, their uniformity also varying from year to year as in the India districts.

Silver Pekoe—Is a long, whitish, downey-leaf Tea, almost “satiny” in texture, with silvery tips at the ends. The liquor is dark, reddish in color, but bright and sparkling in the cup, delicate and fragrant in flavor for this variety but very much overrated in value.

Golden Pekoe—Is a much smaller leaf Tea, darker in color and somewhat silky in texture and liberally sprinkled with rich, yellow or orange tips while the inferior grades are much darker and heavier in body, but fresh, fragrant and greatly appreciated by consumers who prefer this variety.

Pekoe-Souchong—Is chiefly composed of the Pekoe leaves that are devoid of tips and Souchong containing some tipped leaves, but as a general rule it is an unassorted Tea prepared from the larger and coarser leaves that will not pass through the sieves. It is medium in size and choppy in leaf, but ripe and rich in liquor, fairly brisk and malty in flavor.

CEYLON CONGOUS AND SOUCHONGS.

Closely resemble the corresponding India kinds in make, color, liquor and flavor, and make excellent Teas[34] for combining in blending but like the India sorts will not keep as long or as well as the China or Japan kinds, becoming sour and rancid in a few months, defects attributed to the rapid artificial methods of curing practiced in these countries.

Broken Leaf—India and Ceylon Broken-leaf Teas are composed of the old, broken and mutilated leaves of the other sorts which are separated in sifting, and bear the same relation to these varieties that Twankay does to China Green Teas and Nibs to the Japan sorts. They vary in color from brown to black, their strength being seldom great, though the flavor of the finer grades is in general good, drawing and drinking in proportion to the grades from which they are separated, while that of the commoner kinds is poor, thin and coarse in liquor and flavor.

JAVA TEAS.

Are known to commerce as Preangers, Krawangs, Cheribons, Bagelens and Banjœmas Teas, and are classified as Pekoes, Congous, Oolongs and Souchongs, after the manner of India and Ceylon Teas. The leaves of the different kinds are sorted during the picking, and graded according to size, the smallest being converted into Pekoe, the medium into Souchong, and the largest into Oolongs and Congous.

Java Teas in general are particularly small in leaf, dull-black in color, but rather handsome in general appearance, and approximating more to the India variety in style, color and character, but do not keep as well, becoming rank and sour when allowed to lay too long. The liquor of Java Teas is also deficient in strength, body and flavor, being almost totally devoid of any distinctive aroma or pronounced fragrance, defects attributable mainly to their faulty and imperfect methods of curing and preparing, as well as to the fact that the leaves are picked from the plants all the year round, and allowed no time for rest or recuperation, and making very indifferent Teas for blending or using alone.

The last three varieties are generally converted in Congous and Souchongs, ranking with and approximating to Java Teas in style, color and character.

African Teas—Are large, black and coarse in leaf and liquor, being very bitter and astringent in flavor. They make poor Teas for blending purposes.

Fiji Teas—Like African are coarse in leaf, blackish in liquor and almost rank in flavor.

Singapore Tea—Is also a very inferior grade for blending, being too pronounced in character for the purpose.

The Teas of commerce possess two values—an intrinsic or real value, and a commercial or market value—the former constituting its quality, strength and flavor, the latter being more often based on its style or appearance, supply and fluctuations in price, so that in their selection for commercial purposes four leading features are to be considered before purchasing by the dealer, viz.: Leaf, Liquor, Character and Flavor, the drawing and drinking qualities of a Tea in the cup being paramount to its style or appearance in the hand, as many Teas though coarse or rough-looking in “make” or appearance draw and drink exceedingly well in the infusion.

There are five principal methods of testing and selecting Teas for commercial use, and which may be summed up in the following sequence. First by

STYLE OR APPEARANCE.

A good Tea may be readily recognized by its style or appearance in the hand, which though not invariably an indication of its merit in the cup has considerable to do with its quality and value, choice Teas of all kinds being handsomely made and pleasing to the eye. They are compactly if not artistically curled or rolled according to their make, whether Green or Black, and all Teas are[38] fine in proportion to their youth and tenderness, the ripest and juiciest curling up tightest and retaining their form longest, that is the younger and fresher the leaves the richer and more succulent the Tea. While old and inferior Teas on the other hand are large, rough and loosely made in proportion to their age, quality and period of picking, as being partially or totally devoid of sap they are correspondingly coarse, astringent or entirely flavorless in the infused state. By

FEELING OR PRESSING.

Judging a sample of Tea by feeling or pressing in the hand is more applicable to the curled, twisted or Black Tea sorts than to the rolled or Green Tea kinds. For instance, if the leaves of the former make so tested be really choice, they will be found smooth, crisp and elastic in the hand and capable of resisting a gentle but firm pressure without breaking. But if the leaves be old and sapless they will be found tough and chaffy to the touch, very brittle, breaking easily and crumbling under the same conditions.

SMELLING OR INHALING.

By blowing or breathing heavily upon a sample of Tea and then quickly smelling or inhaling the odor emitted from it, a very fair estimate of its general character may be formed by the dealer. To judge correctly by this method, however, an acquaintance with the distinctive flavors and peculiarities will be necessary, this knowledge being best acquired by the dealer adopting a type or standard sample of the Teas he is using or wants to match. By

MASTICATING OR CHEWING.

An approximate estimate of a Tea may also be formed by chewing or masticating the leaves, a good tea being[39] easily recognized by the rapid manner in which the leaves are dissolved on slight mastication. If the Tea be young and the leaves tender, they become quickly reduced to a pasty consistency and very juicy, but if old and inferior they will be found difficult to chew, tough, and yielding little or no sap, according to its age and inferiority.

INFUSING OR DRAWING

Is, after all is said, the most satisfactory and reliable a method of testing or appraising a Tea at its true value, this being the manner adopted by all expert dealers and brokers in Tea. For this method a number of small cups, scales and a half-dime weight are necessary, together with a clean kettle of freshly distilled or filtered water, briskly boiling, and poured on the leaves, after which they are allowed to infuse from three to five minutes before smelling and tasting. The water used must in all cases be as soft and pure as can be obtained, boiled briskly and used only at the boiling point, that is, it must boil, but not overboil, as if allowed to do so for even a few minutes, it will not extract in its entirety the full strength or flavor of the Tea.

As the value of a Tea commercially depends principally upon the weight and flavor of the infusion as well as in the aroma imparted to it by the volatile oil which it contains, so the intrinsic value of a Tea is based principally on the amount of extract which it yields on infusion in addition to the quantity of the theine and tannin contained therein. Again, the taste for a particular variety of Tea being an acquired and not a natural one, it follows that persons accustomed to a certain variety or flavor in Tea want that particular kind and will not be satisfied with any other even if better or higher-priced. This fact being admitted it becomes essential to the success of the Tea dealer to study and learn the tastes and[40] preferences of his patrons in order to cater satisfactorily to them. To illustrate he may be selling his trade a heavy-bodied Amoy Oolong or dark-leaved Foochow and suddenly change off to a fine Formosa or Congou. In such a case his customers will be very apt to find fault with the latter, no matter how fine they may be. It therefore becomes essential to the success of the dealer to pay particular attention to the quality and standard of the Teas he is purchasing, as there is no article which he handles that will attract trade or retain it longer than a good Tea at a legitimate price, such a Tea creating more comment in a district than any other article used at table and to such an extent that if the customers once lose confidence in either the ability or honesty of the dealer in supplying them they will be repelled rather than attracted, it being next to impossible to draw them back again once they leave through any mistake of the dealer in his selection. Poor or badly selected Teas will drive more customers away from a store in a week than can be made in a year, so that it will not pay the dealer to make any serious error in the selection of his Teas, such mistake proving fatal to the holding or increasing of his Tea trade as well as for other articles. It is therefore much better and more profitable in the end to handle only good Teas on fair and legitimate margin than to sell poor inferior and unsatisfactory Teas at a larger margin of profit.

A dealer with any ambition to increase or even retain his Tea trade should no more attempt to handle poor, inferior, dusty, musty or damaged Teas than a butcher has to sell tainted meats or a baker to give his customers sour bread. The offense may not at first seem as objectionable, but the final verdict of his customers will be the same in each case, and the positive manner in which[41] they will eventually manifest their opinion will be to quit dealing with him altogether. Good, clean, pure and sweet-drawing Teas can always be purchased at a few cents per pound above the price of the dusty, musty, mousey, woody, herby, grassy, smoky, or sour and trashy Teas now flooding the market. So that by the mistaken policy of trying to save a few cents per pound extra the seed is sown for the final ruin of the dealer himself in addition to casting discredit on the use of Tea as an article of diet. While on the other hand, if the dealer makes a small but necessary sacrifice for the sake of future gain and reputation by selling only Tea that is Tea, and content himself with a fair but legitimate profit, satisfaction will be given to his customers, his Tea trade fostered and extended, and the consumption of this most important food auxiliary increased throughout the country.

GRADING OF TEAS.

Black Teas, such as Oolongs and Congous, are graded as “Firsts,” “Seconds,” “Thirds,” “Fourths” and some times “Fifths,” denoting the respective pickings and grading in the order named. They are usually divided into “chops”—quantities bearing the brand or “chop-mark” of the grower or packer—and which are again sub-divided into “Lines,” “Marks” and “Numbers,” the latter rarely exceeding fifty packages. The term “chop” meaning in Chinese “contract,” which in the Tea trade is applied to a quantity of Tea frequently composed of the product of different gardens or districts and afterwards mixed together and made uniform before packing and forwarding to the shipping ports.

Green Teas are graded as Nos. 1, 2, 3 and 4, the former being applied to the choicest kinds, No. 2 to choice, No. 3 to medium, and 4 to the common grades.

Japan Teas are usually graded as “Common,” “Choice,” “Extra Choice” and “Choicest.”

India and Ceylon Teas are divided into “Breaks,” each separate picking being known in trade as a “flush” and graded accordingly. Nearly all the India and Ceylon Teas are first “bulked;” that is, the whole is run together in one heap and thoroughly mixed before being put up in the chests, this process having the advantage of insuring the regularity of the break or chop. The selection of India and Ceylon Teas for blending purposes is much more difficult than that of China and Japan Teas, greater care being required to avoid Teas that will not keep well as well as those which may possess any other objectionable peculiarity. The loss of strength and flavor is also much greater in some grades than in others, the kinds most affected being the too highly-fired Teas, the light-flavored Teas and those that possess a loose, rough or open leaf.

WHEN TO BUY TEAS.

The Tea market fluctuating considerably, sometimes it will be necessary for the dealer to learn to understand something of the law of supply and demand, which, to a great extent, affects the fluctuations of the Tea market, before he can be sure of making desirable purchases. The dealer in Tea who not only understands the article he is dealing in, but whose knowledge and judgment enable him, in addition, to make his purchases about the proper time, possesses many advantages over his competitors, the value of which cannot be overestimated. For instance, each season, on the arrival of the first steamers from China and Japan, high prices rule for the earliest pickings, and if the market be bare of chance lots, these full prices are continued for some time thereafter. Then follows a dull, drooping market, from which[43] the dealer derives no satisfaction, but should the demand at first be high and the stocks large, through dealers declining to purchase at full figures, prices rapidly decline to a more reasonable level, after which they then continue comparatively steady for the balance of the year, unless some outside causes should arise to create an advance. For these reasons dealers would do well to take advantage of the fine selections of Teas that arrive during July, August and September from China and Japan. In the purchase of India and Ceylon Teas it will also be found necessary to watch the new arrivals closely, as, after the heavy receipts during October and November, the market is nearly always easier, but when the arrivals are light the market is much higher. These facts are worth the special attention of dealers, as India and Ceylon Teas, although until quite recently comparatively unknown, now form some of the principal kinds for blending purposes.

With the great reduction in the importation prices and the keener competition among dealers, the retail prices of Tea have been brought down to a very low figure, and as dealers generally have educated the public to the purchase of poor and trashy Teas at low prices, it is not probable that the retail prices will ever again reach any higher figures, unless war or other similar cause should lead to a duty being placed upon the commodity. Yet notwithstanding these unprecedented low prices, the per capita consumption of Tea is comparatively very small in this country at the present time. One of the chief causes of this small consumption is directly traceable to the custom now prevalent among retail dealers of charging exorbitant profits on inferior Teas in order to make up for losses sustained on other goods, together with the forcing of poor Teas on their customers. These[44] unwise and impolitic practices might be overlooked were it not for the greater mistake made of sacrificing quality to profit, which in an article of daily and almost universal use like Tea, is an important consideration, so that by rectifying this error and giving more attention to the careful selection of his Teas by the dealer, there is no valid reason why the consumption of the article could not be at least doubled in a short time in this country.

The Teas of commerce are subject to three principal forms of adulteration, viz.: Facing or coloring with deleterious compounds in order to enhance their appearance, mixing with spurious and spent or once used leaves, with the object of increasing their bulk, and sanding or adulterating with mineral matter to add to their weight. But it is against the two first most commonly dangerous forms of adulteration that the principal efforts of dealers and Tea inspectors should more particularly be directed, the latter having received some attention from analysts and chemists, but not to that extent which the importance of the subject merits.

Of the various forms of adulteration practiced in China and Japan, the facing or artificial coloring of low-grade Green Teas is perhaps the most prevalent and glaring, the material used for the purpose being usually composed of Prussian blue, China clay, gypsum, turmeric and indigo.

The process of coloring Green Teas is performed by placing a portion of the Prussian blue in a large bowl and crushing it into a fine powder, a small quantity of gypsum is then added, and the two substances ground and mixed together in the proportions of one part blue to four parts of the gypsum, both making in combination[46] a light blue preparation, in which state it is applied to the leaves during the last process of firing. One ounce of this coloring matter will face or color from fifteen to twenty pounds of Tea leaves, imparting to them a dull leaden-blue color and a greasy appearance readily detected in the hand.

When Green or Japan Teas are heavily coated in this manner it may be readily recognized by their heavy leaden-blue color and oily or greasy appearance in the hand; or, better still, by placing a small sample of the leaves on a piece of glass and allowing them to rest there for some minutes, then on removing them the coloring matter, if any, will be found adhering to the glass, and its nature, whether Prussian blue, indigo or soapstone, detected by the aid of a small microscope. But when only lightly colored the best method is to put the leaves in a cup or glass and pour boiling water on them, stirring them up well meantime and then straining the infusion through a thin muslin cloth, and the coloring matter will be found deposited in the cloth or forming a sediment at the bottom or sides of the vessel into which they are strained.

What are known to trade as “Made Teas,” that is, Teas artificially manufactured from leaves once used, or tea dust, and a preparation of gum or glue to hold them together, and then colored and glazed to give them a pleasing appearance to the eye, are best detected by crushing the so-called leaves between the fingers or hands upon which they leave a yellowish stain, greasy in nature if spurious leaves. Or again, by pulverizing a small quantity of the alleged Tea leaves, and putting them in a cup or glass and pouring on boiling water, they will immediately begin to disintegrate and form a thick, gluey deposit at the bottom of the vessel, pasty in[47] nature, the coloring matter adhering to the bottom or sides of the cup or glass.

Another form of adulteration practiced principally in China is the admixture of spurious or foreign leaves obtained from other plants, such as the willow, plum, ash, and what is known in trade as Ankoi Tea. Millions of pounds of such spurious Tea leaves are annually picked, cured and colored in the same manner as Tea in some of the Chinese Tea districts, and used for the purpose of increasing the bulk and decreasing the cost of genuine Teas, this form of adulteration, however, being only trivial when compared with the former one. Such spurious or foreign leaves in a Tea are best detected by their botanical character, that is, by the absence of the special structural marks, which distinguish the genuine Tea leaf from that of the leaves from all other plants in the vegetable kingdom, for while it is admitted that the Tea leaf bears a strong resemblance to those of the willow, plum and ash, it varies materially, however, in size, form and structure from them, the border of the true Tea leaf being more regularly serrated, the serrations stopping just short of the stalk, and the venations are very characteristic in the genuine Tea leaf, the veins running out from the mid-rib almost parallel with each other, but altering their course before the border of the leaf is reached and turning so as to leave a bare space just under it. So that in making an examination of a sample of Tea for the purpose of ascertaining whether these distinctive characteristics are present in the leaves, it will be found best to pour boiling water on to soften and uncurl them, and spread them out more easily on the glass as per the following diagrams:—

But in order to better detect the presence of spurious leaves in Tea, a better knowledge of the botanical formation of the true Tea leaf will be requisite, as Tea leaves in general bear a very strong resemblance to those of the willow, plum and ash, but vary widely in size and texture, being much smaller and more deeply serrated.

When infused and unfolded, the true or genuine Tea leaf is of a lighter-green color, the looping of the principal veinings being also very characteristic, while the spurious leaves are of a dark greenish-yellow color and very irregular in form when examined under the same conditions.

Sand and other mineral substances, such as iron and steel filings, are also frequently introduced into Tea with the object of adding to its weight, and are easiest detected by powdering a small quantity of the leaves and spreading the powder out on a piece of glass and then applying an ordinary magnet to the dust, so that if a quantity of the particles gravitate and adhere to the magnet the Tea is undoubtedly adulterated in this form.

All adulterations and fabrications in general, however, may be best detected by the following simple but effectual method: By putting a small sample of the Tea leaves in a wine-glass or thin goblet and pouring in clear cold water on them, and then stirring up or shaking well for a few minutes so that the Tea, if pure, will only slightly color the water, but if adulterated in any form a dark, muddy-looking liquor is quickly yielded, which, if next boiled and allowed to stand until cold, will, if spurious leaves are contained, become very bitter to the taste and almost transparent as it cools, while if the sample is composed of pure Tea only, it will be dark in color and pleasing in flavor under the same conditions.

The primary object and fundamental principle of successful and profitable Tea blending should be to obtain in a consolidated form what is known as harmony of combination, that is, strength, pungency, flavor and piquancy in the infusion, and at the same time to accomplish this result with the smallest possible outlay. In order to secure this end three important rules must be carefully followed: (1.) To learn the taste of the consumer. (2.) To ascertain what Teas will combine best to suit this taste, and (3.) To find out to what extent the component parts of a once-adopted and satisfactory blend may be varied in case of any difficulty to secure the same kind or grade of Teas for future use. These essential objects can be best attained only by the proper selecting, weighing and arranging of the proportionate qualities and quantities of the different varieties and grades of Tea in such a manner as to secure the best results with as little variation as possible, so that before proceeding to produce a specific blend or combination the dealer must consider well the descriptions of Tea that will amalgamate most satisfactorily as well as those that will not unite harmoniously, as Teas that are not improved by combination are certain to be deteriorated in blending.

The whole art in successful Tea blending being to combine body and pungency with some particular and distinct flavor in one in order to please a majority of that portion of the public for whom the Tea is specially prepared, and at the same time to arrange its constituent parts in such a manner that this most desirable result may be accomplished at a moderate cost to the dealer than that of any single higher-priced variety, and again to learn how far the component parts may be varied without seriously affecting its regularity, so that advantage may be taken of the cheapness of any necessary variety or grade in market during the season. But it must be understood at the outset that all combinations of Tea, as a rule, must depend upon the general character, grade and flavor of the Tea most in demand in the particular section or district for which they are intended, that special variety or grade forming the base or foundation of the blends prepared for it; that is, it must dominate the combinations. As, for instance, where Oolongs are most in demand the blend must consist of from one-half to two-thirds of that variety, and so on with Congous, Japans, India and Ceylon Teas, as the case may be.

Uniformity of quality and flavor in Tea can only be secured by intelligent and skillful blending, so that the advantages to be gained by the mixing of several varieties and grades of Tea together is so apparent that it needs no arguments to sustain them. But as only the most expensive Teas possess in any marked degree the best all-round qualities which go to make a thoroughly satisfactory beverage when used alone, it is only by intelligent blending that this most desirable result can be obtained at a moderate cost to the dealer. Again it is[53] the dealer who understands the art of blending his Teas successfully who will invariably lead his competitors in the Tea-trade.

The taste for any particular-flavored Tea being an acquired and not a natural one, it necessarily follows that those consumers who have been accustomed to a certain flavor invariably want that particular flavor again, and so will be displeased with any other Tea that does not possess it, although it may be much higher priced and better in every way. Users of wine and other beverages have their likes and dislikes, one preferring a light or mild and another a strong or bitter taste, and so it is with most Tea drinkers when once they have acquired a preference for some particular-flavored Tea. This being a well-established fact among the Tea trade, it becomes essential for the successful Tea blender to study and learn what particular variety, grade or flavor of Tea his patrons have been accustomed to before attempting to cater to it, as not only is there a more divergence in the taste for Teas in the different parts of the country, but in cities, towns and even in localities the specific flavors in demand are so numerous and various that most of the leading Tea dealers have been enabled to mark out a distinct trade for themselves. In large cities this is a very wise and desirable policy to pursue, providing the blend or blends adopted and found satisfactory are kept uniform and regular thereafter, as it secures the return again and again of the same customer to the dealer, and thus keeps his Tea business not only steady but progressive. Even away from the large cities it is well to bear the importance of this policy in mind, but while at the beginning it may be found more advisable to keep fairly close to the established taste of the town or locality, a gradual[54] change by the introduction of some special combination may be found the best course to pursue.

With regard to the best Teas for blending purposes, before proceeding to the study or preparation of any specific formulas, it will be well for the dealer to consider the varieties and grades of Tea that will not blend satisfactorily as well as those that will assimilate successfully with each other. In this case it is much easier to describe the negative side first, as Teas that will not be improved are certain to be injured by blending. One of the best rules to act upon as a guide to successful Tea blending is not to allow unclean or damaged Teas—even in the smallest quantities—to be introduced into any blend. This rule should be as rigidly adhered to in the common or low-priced blends as in the choice or high-grade ones, because never for a moment should it be forgotten by the dealer that if not improved Teas are certain to be deteriorated by blending, particularly by the introduction of inferior Teas. For this reason it may be well for him to consider the grade of Tea that will combine satisfactorily as well as that will not assimilate successfully with each other, as even though all the other Teas composing a blend be well selected and well arranged, the presence of a single damaged or inferior Tea will be found to taste through it.

All Ankois and Amoy Oolongs described by the trade as “herby” or “weedy,” and sometimes as “woody” Teas, should be rejected altogether, as should ever so small a quantity of these weedy Ankois be introduced into a blend the entire combination will be irretrievably spoiled. All “dusty,” “musty,” “stemmy,” tainted or[55] otherwise damaged Foochow and Formosa Oolongs should also be avoided by the successful Tea-blender, as they will be certain to permeate and destroy any combination into which they are introduced, no matter how small the quantity. And all “musty,” “mousey,” “minty,” and “stemmy” Congou and Souchong Teas, as well as all artificially-made and spurious Scented Teas, must also be shunned.

All Pingsuey, Canton, artificially-colored, and what are known in trade as Country Green Teas, should be tabooed altogether, as they invariably detract from any blend in which they may be used. If cheap Green Teas must be had for blending, the surest policy is to select a true Moyune Hyson or Twankay of low grade for the purpose, as the commonest kinds of the latter will give better satisfaction in any combination of Teas than the finest of the former sorts. And all artificially-colored Japan Teas, as well as all those of a “fishy,” “brassy” or metallic flavor must be avoided in blending, as they, too, destroy the good qualities of the finer Teas forming the blend. And all old, sour or otherwise tainted India, Ceylon and Java Teas in particular, should not, under any circumstances, be handled by the would-be successful Tea blender, as there is neither profit in them for the dealer nor satisfaction to the consumer. In brief, select only good, clean sweet-drawing Teas for all blending purposes, as it pays best in the end.

The chief characteristics which distinguish fine Teas may be summed up in the following sequence, viz.: choice Amoy Oolongs are “full-bodied and toasty” in flavor. Foochows are “rich and mellow.” Formosas[56] are “fragrant and aromatic.” Fine Green Teas are “sparkling and pungent in liquor,” while Congous are “fruity” in flavor and Souchongs are slightly “tarry.” Choice Japans of all makes are light in draw and what is known as “mealy” in flavor, while Indias are what is known as “malty” and Ceylons “toasty.” Scented Teas are “piquant” and possess what is technically termed a “bouquet,” but all Java Teas usually turn sour or rancid in a very brief time after being once opened and exposed to the atmosphere.

BLACK TEA BLENDS.

Formula No. 1.

For a low-priced Tea suitable for restaurant and general trade where a cheap, heavy-bodied and strong-flavored liquor is the main consideration:—

In the Oolong, which forms the base of this blend, a little coarseness may be tolerated, but “herby” and “weedy” Teas must be avoided, as what pungency is required is supplied by the Congou, which must, however, be free from any suspicion of oldness or staleness, and if not sufficiently heavy, the addition of one part of Broken-leaf Assam will supply this defect.

No. 2.

No. 3.

For a low-priced to a fair grade Tea-blend the following combination has been found satisfactory in a mining or manufacturing district, where a full, heavy, substantial Tea is required:—

This combination yields a dark-colored, heavy-bodied, “grippy” beverage, one that will stand a second drawing and still be strong and flavory.

No. 4.

The Ning-yong in this combination should be clean and as sweet-drawing as can be had for the price, and the Congou as high-toasted as possible. If not sufficiently heavy or pungent, the addition of one pound Broken-leaf Assam will improve it in this respect wonderfully.

No. 5.

For a fair to medium blend, a combination like the following will be found to give almost universal satisfaction in any locality where a full-ripe round liquor and high flavor is in demand:—

The Foochow Oolong in this combination while possessing a full body is not sufficiently flavory to tone-up the combination, the Formosa Oolong is added for this purpose, the Congou giving character to the whole.

No. 6.

To obtain a grippy Tea, one that will stand a second drawing and still possess sufficient body and flavor to please, the following is suggested:—

No. 7.

A blend similar to the following will be found to give very general satisfaction at all times and in all sections, being full rich, and strong, yet withal smooth and pleasing to the average taste and entirely dissimilar to any single variety in common use:—

A fair Nankin Moyune Tea may be substituted for the Japan when Green Tea is required in the combination, or, better still, added to it in such cases.

No. 8.

A very serviceable Tea that will yield a rich, heavy-bodied pungent liquor, much admired by Irish or English tea consumers, is composed as follows:—

In this combination the Assam is introduced to add strength to the piquancy of the Formosa, both forming a full-bodied, fragrant Tea in conjunction.

No. 9.

The appended blend yields a clear, strong, bright infusion, rich and fragrant in flavor and pleasing in aroma, for those who desire an all-black Tea.

The Oolongs in this combination lack body and pungency, which the addition of the Assam imparts, the Japan giving the necessary fragrance.

No. 10.

The following blend has been found to give almost universal satisfaction in a neighborhood composed chiefly of a working class and to Tea drinkers generally, costing much less than any single variety possessing the same cup qualities:—

No. 11.

If the trade be a professional one, a blend like the following will be found to suit the most fastidious taste:—

No. 12.

When a particularly rich, full-bodied aromatic-flavored Tea is required to please a taste otherwise difficult to suit, the appended formula is recommended.

No. 13.

Another combination like the following that is unique in itself, the flavor being unlike that of any single variety grown.

But if still not of sufficient strength, add one part of fine Moning or Kaisow Congou to tone it up.

No. 14.

The three most satisfactory and attractive blends in Black Teas, however, are composed as follows, which[61] may be divided into Choice, Extra Choice and Choicest, and are warranted to suit any taste or section of the country, in addition to the fact that the dealer need not carry too many kinds for their preparation.

No. 15.
CHOICE.

No. 16.
EXTRA CHOICE.

No. 17.
CHOICEST.

Ning-chow is one of the best of the Moning Congou Teas for blending purposes; the finer grades being Pekoe-tipped and flavored. The dried leaf is small, evenly curled and grayish-black in color, while the infused leaf is of a bright-brown color with a tendency to red in the cup. The liquor is rich, ripe and full in body, and the flavor is more delicate and aromatic than that of any of the other varieties of Congou Tea. The[62] medium and lower grades will also be found very useful to the dealer, as they are heavy and strong in liquor, combining advantageously with most of the other Teas and keeping as a general rule much better.

No. 18.
FINE.

No. 19.
EXTRA FINE.

No. 20.
FINEST.

In the general run of trade these grades are unmatchable at any price, and may be termed the perfection of Tea at their respective prices, suiting any and all tastes.

GREEN TEA BLENDS.

No. 1.

No. 2.

No. 3.

And for a very low-priced Tea of this order the best results are obtainable from a combination composed of:—

In this latter blend, if the Hyson is scarce and difficult to secure, a good, clean, sweet-drawing Twankay or Hyson-skin will answer the purpose.

No. 4.

Two other good combinations are formed as follows when an all Imperial and all Young Hyson is required:—

No. 5.

GREEN AND BLACK TEA BLENDS.

Green and Black Tea blends are mostly composed of parts Oolongs and Imperials, the other varieties, such as[64] Congous, Souchongs, India and Ceylons, being considered as entirely too strong in combination with the already pungent Green Teas.

No. 1.

No. 3.

No. 4.

No. 5.

Is a combination that is considered quite unique in itself by many Tea-drinkers.

In China Green Teas Moyunes will be found the most valuable and satisfactory for all blending purposes, the finer grades particularly yielding a rich straw-colored liquor, very delicate and aromatic in flavor, and at the same time possessing a pungency somewhat resembling that of a choice Formosa Oolong in character.

CHINA AND JAPAN TEA BLENDS.

The following blends cannot be surpassed or even matched in strength and flavor by any tea of either kind when used alone:—

No. 1.

No. 2.

The appended formula makes a splendid cup of Tea for such consumers as may desire an all black blend:—

No. 3.

A blend like the following will be found to give very general satisfaction, being rich, full and strong, yet piquant and pleasing and entirely foreign to any other Tea in general use:—

No. 4.

No. 5.

In addition to these a blend composed of equal parts of a medium grade Pan-fired Japan and a plain dark-drawing Foochow Oolong forms an excellent combination at a moderate price. And a fair Pakeong Young Hyson and a choice Sun-dried Japan yields an excellent liquor for those desiring an all Green Tea blend.

INDIA AND CHINA TEA BLENDS.

In the appended combinations only from three to four component parts are given for each blend, as the dealer should not attempt to mix more of these sorts until he has become thoroughly acquainted with their peculiarities or educated his trade up to their use:—

No. 1.

This is a good combination where the water is hard, as it is in many sections of the country, the sweetness of the Moning and briskness of the Kaisow being unequalled for all low-priced blends.

No. 2

Strength not appearance should be the test of the Teas forming this blend, and if Assam Souchong is cheaper it may be used to better advantage.

No. 3

A fine Kintuck or Kiukiang Congou may be used with equal advantage in this blend if the Suey-kut is difficult to obtain.

No. 4.

The chief feature of this combination is its delicacy of flavor, the Paklin imparting a deep rich color to the liquor, the Ning-chow enriching the flavor, and the Darjeeling adding weight and strength to the entire blend.

No. 5

Makes a very good medium-priced Tea, one nearly always sure of appreciation among a foreign population:—

The latter must be strong and grippy in order to give strength and fullness to the other component parts of this combination.

In the blending of India Teas alone the best results are obtained from a combination of equal parts of the Assam, Cachar and Darjeeling sorts, a good plan being to mix three to five of these Teas together. A leading and popular blend is composed of a strong, thick Assam, a brisk and pungent Cachar, with a ripe, juicy Deradoon and a fine flavored Darjeeling or soft character Kangra to impart a distinctive feature to the combination.

INDIA, CHINA AND JAPAN BLENDS.

In the blending of India, China and Japan Teas the dealer must use extreme caution, as the combining of these varieties is comparatively a new departure among American Tea consumers.

No. 1.

No. 2.

No. 3.

No. 4.

The annexed combination has proven to be a very popular Tea in many sections of Philadelphia and vicinity:—

No. 5.

In this latter combination both the Ning-yong and Kaisow Congou must be clean; that is, as free from dust as possible at the price, and fairly heavy in body. The Assam being added to impart tone, character and flavor to the whole, it should be fresh and strong, and while a little coarseness may be tolerated in it, an earthy-flavored one must be avoided.

INDIA AND CEYLON BLENDS.

The blending of India and Ceylon Teas is chiefly confined to equal parts of each. The lower grades being generally composed of Broken-leaf and Fannings.

No. 1.

No. 2.

No. 3.

Broken-leaf India and Ceylon Teas are especially useful for all blending purposes, and a judicious use of these grades—of say two parts to ten of the other kinds—will often give the dealer an advantage of from four to six cents per pound in addition to greatly improving the blend, more particularly when the other Teas are leafy and free from dust. But all low-grade India and Ceylon Teas that possess a burnt, baked, sour or raw flavor, must be avoided.

INDIA, CHINA AND CEYLON BLENDS.

In all combinations of India, Ceylon and China Teas the average quantity of the former kinds used should be from one-fifth to one-sixth.

No. 1.

No. 2.

A blend like the following will be found to yield a strong, rich and fragrant infusion for customers desiring Ceylon and India Teas:—

No. 3.

But if a rich, heavy-bodied and aromatic Tea is required to please a taste difficult to suit, the appended formula is recommended:—

The Oolong used in this formula must possess pungency and high-flavor, the addition of the Ceylon imparting a “toastiness,” the Assam furnishing “maltiness” and strength to the entire combination.

For a very cheap Tea a low-priced Mohea Oolong and Broken-leaf Assam, both costing about 15 cents, and blended in equal proportions, cannot be excelled by any single Tea at 30 cents when used alone. This combination gives better satisfaction to Tea-drinkers of this grade and costs much less.

SCENTED TEA BLENDS.

Among English and Scotch Tea consumers Scented Teas are used very largely in nearly all combinations, and more especially in those of the lower-priced blends; but where this is done it is always best to use only Moning Congous for the foundation Tea of the blend, as Scented Teas combine far better with Monings than with Kaisows. One of the most common errors in[73] Tea blending, however, is that a certain large portion of Scented Teas, when combined with any other variety—no matter how flat, rough or astringent the latter may be—will make a blend not only palatable but pleasing. This is an illusion, as Scented Teas of themselves cannot master or overpower commonness or supply lack of strength to any Tea or Teas which does not already possess it. But while it is admitted that a small quantity may improve any blend, if too freely or injudiciously used it will make the combination thin, and, in addition, unless the Scented Tea has been well selected, the blend will probably taste heavy in the cup. When Scented Caper is used too freely in a blend special care must be taken to obtain a very heavy-bodied Tea for the foundation, it being best to add thick-liquoring Indias, as otherwise a too plentiful use of Caper will make the infusion thin and bitter.

No. 1.

For use only in Scented Tea districts or among Irish, English and Scotch Tea consumers.

Should this combination be too light in draw, two pounds or parts of the Congou may be used or the Assam increased half a pound or part.

No. 2.

In this combination the Assam must be strong and pungent and the Congou selected for its sweetness and briskness, and both free from coarseness and should be neither thin or sour.

No. 3.

This combination is of great strength and intended only for those who prefer a heavy dark-liquored Tea, as it is much too strong to please the average taste.

No. 4.

The following combinations are very popular among English Tea consumers in this country, and will be found to suit the average taste for scented Tea-blends.

The base or foundation of this blend, as will be noticed, is composed of Moning Congou, the Souchong enriching it, and the Kaisow being added to give it the requisite flavor, the Pekoe imparting aroma, and the Oolong smoothness, while the Assam adds body, sharpness and pungency to the whole.

No. 5.

Another very similar scented Tea-blend that may be prepared cheaper, but which will not prove quite as satisfactory, is composed as follows:—

The Moning Congou forming the base of this combination not possessing the strength and flavor of these used in the first, an extra quantity of Assam is required to tone them up. The equal proportion of Kaisow imparting a richer flavor as well as toning down the high toast of the Assam used in it, the Pekoe giving an aroma or “bouquet” to the entire blend.

ENGLISH TEA BLENDS.

Blended Teas are the rule in England, where the skillful mixing of Teas has become a science; very little, if any, Tea being sold to consumers in its original state, every dealer, both wholesale and retail, being noted for or identified with some unique or particularly flavored blend of Tea. The majority of these combinations, although markedly distinct and differing widely in flavor and almost opposite in character, are skillfully combined, the greatest care being taken that no Tea is introduced into a blend that may act detrimentally upon the others forming the combination, which proves that no matter how great the divergence in the Teas whenever knowledge and judgment is brought to bear on the subject[76] success is sure to follow. And, again, that, although most of the combinations are exceedingly popular, there is still ample room for the introduction of new ones as well as for improvement on those in use at present. But the knowledge and skill displayed by English Tea dealers in this particular branch of their business is only attained by frequent tests and experiments, that is, by generally mixing together from three to five samples of Tea differing in variety, grade and character, and alternately changing and substituting the qualities and quantities until they eventually succeed in producing a Tea at a more moderate price, identified with themselves, and more satisfactory to their customers, in addition to differing in every respect from the Teas offered by their competitors.

No. 1.

The Moning should be thick and heavy in liquor and also the Ceylon, while the Caper must be highly scented.

No. 2.

In this blend the Oopack must not be thin, “woody” or old, while the Caper should be selected more for its high scent and strength rather than its style. The[77] Ceylon Congou heavy in draw and the Pekoe-Souchong strong and pungent.

No. 3.

The Ceylon Congou should be heavy and strong, the Ning-chow round and full, the Assam pungent and the Darjeeling possess as much character as possible at the price.

No. 4.

The Chingwo must be first crop if obtainable, and the Ceylon thin, while the Indias should be rich, ripe and free from all coarseness.

No. 5

In this combination the Congous must be full and rich, and if a little “tarry” in flavor the better, but must not be old or sour.

No. 6.

Both the Congous must be first crop or of good grade, the China Pekoe highly scented and the India Pekoes thick in liquor and pungent in flavor.

No. 7.

All tarriness and sourness must be avoided in the Congous, the Foochow heavy-bodied and the Caper full-scented, while the India must be of high grade and strength.

No. 8.

The Moning must be light and fragrant, the Kaisow, Souchong-flavored, the Assam full and rich, the Darjeeling fairly pungent and of good quality, while the China Pekoe should be very high scented.

No. 9.

In this combination the Congous should be fairly thick and fruity, the Souchong heavy and a little “tarry,” the Ceylon smooth and the India pungent in liquor.

No. 10.

Many of the Tea-blends in use in England, although differing widely in liquor and flavor, are most skillfully combined, the greatest caution being taken that no Tea is introduced in them that may in any way act detrimentally upon any of the other Teas forming the blend. As stated above, the majority of these English blends are markedly distinct in cup-qualities, in fact, almost diametrically opposite, the chief feature of one being a rich, ripe Tea, that of another being an even-leafed, delicate-flavored Tea, while the foundation of the third is composed of a plain grade, to which is added a rough, coarse or broken Tea, in order to increase its body or give point to the combination, a small quantity of some good, sweet, low-priced kind being frequently introduced to[80] reduce the cost. Again, after the English Tea dealer has once succeeded in producing a popular flavored Tea, he is most careful to keep the component parts of the blend as uniform as possible, and never permits even his employees to know of what Teas his combination is formed. He thus becomes celebrated for keeping a flavor and character of Tea that cannot be procured elsewhere at any price, and when once his customers becomes educated to that especial flavor they are sure to return again and again for it.

RUSSIAN TEA BLENDS.

The Russians, who are a nation of Tea drinkers and use as much tea per head as the Chinese themselves, consume principally China Souchongs and the better grades of Congous, their blends and combinations being chiefly composed of these varieties, so that in sections populated with Russians, Russian Jews and Poles the appended specimens will suffice for their use:—

No. 1.

No. 2.

No. 3.

No. 4.

Latterly, however, India and Ceylons are coming more into use in this country with this class of trade, so that combinations of China, India and Ceylons, such as the following, are very popular among them.

No. 5.

In Russia the Samovar, or tea pot, is always steaming, and the natives never cease drinking tea while there is water left to prepare it. It is served at all hours of the day, in palace as well as hovel; shops abound for its sale in all the principal cities, all business transactions being made and sealed over steaming goblets of Tea. But however great the number or wide the divergence in the liquors and flavors of the combinations here given, wherever knowledge and judgment is brought to bear on the subject, success is sure to follow the efforts of the[82] dealer; and although the majority of the foregoing blends have been found exceedingly good by actual experience, there is still ample room for other combinations by the progressive Tea-blender as well as for great improvements upon those that are presented here.

RULES FOR SUCCESSFUL TEA BLENDING.

The great art of successful Tea blending consists in the combining of quality, strength, pungency with some particular liquor and distinct flavor so as to please the greatest number of consumers for whom the blend is intended, and at the same time to arrange the component parts in such a manner that this result may be attained at the smallest possible cost to the dealer. In order to accomplish this object three important points are necessary: (1.) The dealer must study to understand the tastes and preferences of his customers for whom the blend is to be prepared. (2.) He must learn to know which varieties and grades of Tea that will combine best to please this taste, and (3.) He must learn to know how far the component parts of each blend can be varied when required without seriously affecting its uniformity, so that he may be the better enabled to take advantage of the cheapness of any special grade of Tea in the market.

In the blending of China Congous it will be found most desirable to avoid the mixing of Teas of a heavy, strong or coarse description, such as “Red-Leaf” Teas of the Padrae and Saryune sorts with those of a highly flavored and delicate character, such as Monings and Chingwos, as to blend Teas of such markedly different characters will be found beneficial to neither. This rule also applies to Formosa Oolongs and the Congou sorts, as[83] the briskness of the lower and livelier Tea is marred by the softness of the more delicate and flavory Tea in the combination, while the body of the former will be spoiled by the delicacy of the latter.

The importance of retaining all blends regular and uniform—when once they have been adopted and proven satisfactory—cannot be overestimated, as what Tea dealer can expect continued success if his blends consist one week or month of fine, flavory Teas, the next of heavy, dull-liquored Teas, and the third of a sharp, pungent or astringent character? Each new combination may possess good qualities of its own, all its component parts be skillfully and judiciously arranged and the mixing performed with the greatest care, but unless one or more good blends is decided on and then closely adhered to complaints will be made by the customers if they do not go elsewhere. To obtain this necessary uniformity is sometimes very difficult for the dealer, as no two invoices of Tea will be found exactly alike in all respects; and although Teas may be selected of about the same grade and quality, even chosen from those grown in the same district and blended in exactly the same proportions as in the combination they are intended to replace, the divergence may still be so great as to cause dissatisfaction among the customers. This variation may best be avoided by not changing more than one of the Teas composing the blend at the same time, so that when a number of Teas are used in a blend the alteration of any one of them—providing that particular one is fairly matched—will make but a comparatively small difference in the combination. If the changes in the various Teas forming the blend are thus made gradually, few, if any, of the customers will detect the slight alteration in the blend.

Scoops or other measures must not be relied on in the proper blending of Teas; scales and weights must be invariably used if the dealer wants to be precise and successful in the business. For if it is worth his time and trouble to test a number and variety of Teas in order that he may select the most suitable for the purpose, and then study how to arrange them in the best and most advantageous proportions, it certainly is worth the little extra time and trouble of not marring the qualities of his combinations by an injudicious and hap-hazard muddling of the quantities of the various parts composing the blends. This advantage of weighing the Teas for blending is not excelled even by the advantages gained by the careful and judicious selection of the Teas for blending purposes.

All Teas after being blended should be allowed to stand in the caddie or bin, tightly closed, for from a week to ten days before dispensing, in order that the different Teas composing the blends may have sufficient time to assimilate and to exchange or impart their opposite flavors to each other. For should they not be allowed to thus stand, and the Tea be used just as soon as the blend is prepared, first one and then another of its component parts will predominate in too great a proportion, by which the time and trouble that has been taken in arranging the blend will have been to a large extent wasted and thrown away; while if the mixture be allowed to remain in the bin or caddie as directed, it will eventually become as one Tea and be always regular and uniform in quality and flavor.

Good, clean and sweet low-grade Teas being nearly always to be had for a few cents per pound above the[85] price of the cheap, trashy Teas now offered on the American market, it is only folly for the dealer to purchase the latter, as they are not cheap at any price, as by the supposed saving of these few cents in the pound, the seed is not only sown for the future ruin of the individual dealer, but it also disgusts the public with Tea as an article of food, while on the other hand if the Tea dealer will make a comparatively small but requisite sacrifice for the sake of future gain, complete satisfaction will be given to his customers, the trade in Tea will be fostered and increased, and a great impetus given to its consumption by a discriminating public.

A blend of Tea should never have its cost reduced by the introduction of a grade coarser in nature than that of a majority of the Teas forming the combination, so that low-grade Teas when used for reducing the cost of the blend should be as full, plain and sweet as possible. This is advisable for the reason that a Tea of such a pronounced character will more or less stamp its own impression upon any blend into which it may be introduced. Again, should the lowest-priced Tea in a blend be a Tea of a marked or inferior character, instead of its being absorbed by the other Teas in the blend, its disagreeable features will stand out prominently among them, while the superior qualities of the finer grades will be—if not entirely obliterated—yet so injured as to be scarcely recognizable. While if the component parts of the blend be so well arranged that the most powerful Tea constituting it be also the highest grade Tea, the effect produced is that the other Teas in it are raised to its level, but if the powerful Tea is one of the low-priced Teas the others naturally reduce to its standard.

Early picked or “first-crop” Teas should always be chosen when possible to obtain for blending purposes, as first-crop Teas are always superior to the later pickings in flavor and aroma, in the greater amount of Theine (the active principle of Tea) which they contain as well as in their keeping qualities and blending properties, in fact, in everything except body for which Tea is deemed valuable; but in addition to selecting first-crop Teas for high-grade blends, it will be found advisable each season to ascertain the district yielding the best product, thus making quality as well as quantity the test of success, for as with wheat and other crops the Tea crop varies considerably according to the season, some years it is very good in one province or district while in others it may prove a comparative failure; thus one year a certain crop of Tea may be heavy and strong in liquor and flavor and next thin, weak and flavorless, while other “chops” that have been lacking in these qualities last year may possess the most desirable qualities this year. All varieties of Tea are equally subject to these variations, so that the advantages to be derived from a careful utilization of the best district crops of the year with but slight consideration will be very manifest to the dealer himself.

The tastes in Tea of different communities varying widely, the dealer should study and learn the particular kind and flavor best adapted to the district or locality in which he is doing business, as a Tea that may suit one class of consumers will not sell at all in another, so that the dealer himself should ascertain by repeated trials what variety or grade of Tea best suits his own particular trade. This object can best be accomplished by a series of experiments with the numerous kinds of Tea,[87] and then noting and adopting the character and flavor of the Tea or Teas that gives the best satisfaction in price and quality to a majority of his patrons. Before proceeding to give formulas for any specific combinations it will be well for the dealer to consider the varieties and grades of Tea that will not blend satisfactorily as well as those which will assimilate best with each other, for it must not be forgotten for a moment by the dealer that Tea if not improved is certain to be injured by blending. But it is much easier for him to learn what Teas to avoid than what Teas to select, and what are best adapted to his particular trade.

Generally in a thickly-populated manufacturing and mining district, or among all working classes in this country, heavy-bodied, sweet-drawing Amoy and dark-leaved, strong Foochow Oolongs will prove the most popular Teas for the base or foundation of all blends, while in a district composed chiefly of Irish, English or Scotch Tea consumers, Congous, Souchongs and the better grades of India and Ceylon Teas will be found to give the best satisfaction. In neighborhoods made up of Polish and Russian Jews, low-grade, dark-drawing, thick-liquored Congous and Souchongs, or combinations of these two varieties alone, will be found the most satisfactory, being known to them as Russian Teas, from the fact that these are the only sorts used among Russian Tea drinkers.

For the base of the best blends or for flavoring purposes among purely American Tea consumers a really choice Formosa Oolong will be found an exceedingly valuable Tea, as a small quantity of fine or even tolerably good Formosa Tea will permeate and taste through[88] any combination, and most Tea drinkers, when once they become accustomed to its unique flavor, will rarely be pleased with any other Tea afterwards. The dried leaf of the choicer grades is small and artistically made, yellowish-black in color, while the infused leaf is bright green and uniform. The liquor is of a rich straw color, its value consisting in a combination of piquancy, pungency and delicate aroma.

To successfully accomplish the building up of a profitable and permanent Tea business three things are requisite: (1.) The dealer must keep the best Teas obtainable at the most popular prices. (2.) He must let the public know by advertising or other means that he keeps them. (3.) It is also most important that all standard blends should possess some distinct or characteristic flavor by which it may be readily recognized by those who use it. But at the same time there is very little use in advertising or making known a Tea that does not possess intrinsic merit, as merit without some publicity makes but slow headway in these progressive times.

One of the principal objects to keep in view in forming a Tea-blend is that it will come out well in the water in which it is to be infused; that it shall possess a flavor that will please the taste of a majority of the customers and at the same time be of such a distinctive character as to make the combination your own particular specialty. But it must be borne in mind that Teas draw quite differently in hard and soft water, and the dealer’s object should be to offer only the best possible Tea for the money expended. He should also avoid those kinds which are unsuitable to the water of his locality.

Soft water has a great advantage over hard in the testing and preparation of Tea for use, so that many parts of the country possess an advantage over others in the use of Tea, as wherever the water is soft and pure far better results are obtained from an infusion of a given quantity of leaves than can be produced from the hard water of other sections. This difference arises from the now well-established fact that soft water dissolves a greater percentage of the theine—the active principle of Tea—than hard water, thus causing its properties to become more apparent, the coarseness as well as fineness being brought out to a greater extent by the action of the soft water in all cases, and consequently the too highly-fired and brisk-burnt Teas so much in favor in some sections of the country for low-priced blends are not liked at all in the sections where soft water alone is to be had. For this reason, also, Teas of the Congou and Souchong order are most appreciated where the water is soft, as the natural delicacy of their flavor is best extracted by soft water and in even greater proportions than is the flavor of the other varieties known to trade.

In testing Teas by infusion or drawing for blending, four important facts must be borne in mind by the dealer: (1.) The water used for drawing them should be as soft and pure as can be obtained or filtered before using. (2.) It must be boiled as rapidly as possible and used only at the boiling point, and (3.) It must be boiling, but must not overboil, for should it be allowed to overboil for even a few minutes it will not extract the full strength and aroma from the leaves. All Tea experts are most particular on these points, so much so that they have the kettle watched in order that the water may be poured on the Tea the[90] moment it boils, and if any water remains in the kettle it is immediately poured away, as the effect of using water that has been boiled a second time is the same as that of water that has been permitted to overboil. Should the buyer, from neglect or indifference, use water that has not been boiled, the leaves in the cup will float on top and not sink to the bottom as in the case of boiling water, and should the water be overboiled or boiled a second time it will be readily detected by its appearance in the cup, the infusion being thin and insipid and of a peculiar, sickly color. (4.) The infusion should be allowed to draw from four to six minutes, according to the variety of Tea under treatment, that is, China and Japan Teas, five to six minutes, while India, Ceylon and Java Teas require only three to four minutes, owing to the great excess of tannin which they contain. But all the properties of the Tea that can be dissolved in the cup is fully extracted in from three to four minutes, five to six minutes being generally sufficient for all Teas, as the infusion is then at its best, but from that time on the Tea gradually loses its aroma and flavor until, if allowed to stand for half an hour, it becomes dull and insipid. Another important point must here be noted by the dealer, it is that a good Tea becomes better as it cools, while a poor Tea becomes poorer under the same conditions.

The leaves of a choice, pure Tea will be found, after infusion, to be of a medium and uniform size, perfectly formed and unbroken and of a bright-green or dark-brown, according to the kind of Tea tested, that is, Oolongs, Green and Japan Teas will be greenish, while Congous, Souchongs, India, Ceylon and Java Teas will be dark-brown in color. All Teas of the Oolong varieties[91] are subject to the same rules in judging them, and the same rules that govern in testing Green Teas will also apply to Japans. While the selection of Indias, Ceylons and Teas of the China-Congou sorts are also governed by similar rules in testing and selecting.

Still another important point for the dealer to keep in mind is the necessity of securing Teas that will draw well in the water of his district. To aid in this selection the following kinds are suggested:—

For Very Hard Water—Padrae, Saryune and strong, “tarry” Oonfa Congous are best, also Indias of the Assam variety and heavy-drawing Ceylons, including broken-leaf Pekoes are best adapted.

For Medium Hard Water—Flavory India Teas, including Cachars, Darjeeling and Ceylons of all kinds, first crop Panyongs and rich, thick, round Keemun Congous, Oolongs, Japans and Green Teas of all grades.

For Soft Water—All varieties and grades of Oolong, Green, Scented and Japan Teas, Ningchow, Paklin and Chingwo Congous, light-drawing Indias and Ceylons of nearly all kinds as well as all descriptions of high-flavored Teas.

The utmost care is necessary in the keeping and handling of Tea in order to prevent from deteriorating in strength and flavor or otherwise decaying until disposed of. It should therefore whenever possible be kept by itself in a moderately warm temperature and always covered over until required, and when any of the packages have been opened and the contents not all removed, care must be taken to replace the lead lining, lid and matting, so as to exclude the dust and damp as well as all foreign odors that may surround it. For this reason also Tea should never be exposed in windows or at store-doors where the air, damp and dust surely and rapidly destroy all semblance to its original condition.

All Teas when once they have ripened and become seasoned commence to decay, but there is a vast difference in the time that some varieties will last before the deterioration becomes objectionable in comparison with others. Some kinds, such as Foochow and Formosa Oolongs, keeping for a year or more. China Congous and Souchongs and Japan Teas from six to eight months, while Scented Teas, India and Ceylon Teas, after a much[94] briefer period become dull and brackish, and it frequently happens that when the latter are a year old they are worth only half their original cost.

All Teas possessing a natural aptitude to become impregnated with foreign flavor of any product placed near it, and to absorb the foul odors by which they may be surrounded, should be kept as far apart as possible from any high-smelling articles in the dealer’s stock—such as soap, fish, spices and oils of all kinds—as they very rapidly absorb any pungent odors that may be in their immediate vicinity. And Teas have even been known to completely alter their flavor and character by being placed too close to molasses, oranges and lemons, therefore it becomes important for the dealer not to keep Teas too near any product emitting a foul or strong aroma. For this reason also they should not be dispensed out of freshly-painted bins or caddies, it being much more preferable at all times to deal them out of the original lead-lined chests, replacing the lid until required. Again, Teas should never be mixed in rainy, damp or humid weather, as they are bound to absorb and be injured by the oxydizing influences of the atmosphere, nor must they be kept too near a fire or stove, a dry, cool atmosphere of moderate temperature being always best for them.

Of the numerous commodities dealt in by the grocer there is none so important as that of Tea, this importance being due to its value as a trade-making, trade-retaining and profit-producing article, particularly when furnished of such quality as to give permanent satisfaction to the general public as well as to the regular customer. But notwithstanding its importance in these[95] respects there is no article handled by the grocer the quality and value of which is so little understood by the average dealer. Again assailed as the retail grocery business now is by keen competition from so many queer Teas, the necessity for a better knowledge of and more careful attention to the article is at once apparent if the grocer—to whom its sale of right belongs—is not to find the almost entire withdrawal of this article from his line of business.

To properly understand the selecting and blending of Teas is therefore to be possessed of a valuable and profitable knowledge; but while such proficiency is not within the scope of every dealer, the study of these points to any extent will prove not only lucrative but entertaining and instructive. And while it may be claimed that such a study will occupy too much valuable time, or that it is much more economical to purchase from the wholesale Tea blender, still the great importance of a better acquaintance with such knowledge and experience must be evident to the dealer. For the proper blending of Tea the dealer should be provided with a small kettle and other apparatus for filtering and boiling the water as conveniently and rapidly as possible. Small scales for weighing the samples of Tea to be tested, pots for drawing and cups for tasting, and so start from the beginning.

Samples of the Teas desired having been procured from different houses should then be drawn and tested and a careful examination made of the leaves of each, their size, color, condition and smell being closely noted. In such drawings all Teas of an objectionable character should be set aside, and those remaining on the boards carefully arranged in the order of their value; but should[96] any doubt exist in giving a decision between the several samples as to their superiority, then the drawing should be repeated and the poorer ones rejected, thus narrowing down the contest to the best Teas. Again, where it proves difficult to decide between the cup qualities of those remaining, then the size, style, condition and weight of the dry leaf should be taken into consideration, which will be found helpful in making the required decision. The decision having been arrived at, however, the Tea considered best may also be higher in price than some others approximating to it in style and drawing qualities, and if it be found that it cannot be purchased except at a price considerably higher than others on the table approaching it closely, it will be better under such circumstances to select another Tea, grading second, or even third in quality, at a much lower figure. An excellent plan for the careful Tea blender is to have a “type” or standard sample of the Tea he desires to duplicate and which he has found to be satisfactory, and samples of Tea of the various kinds of known value should always be kept convenient for reference, and in air-tight tins, with their grade, price, character, chop mark and year of production marked thereon.

ART OF SELLING TEA.

The dealer having succeeded in selecting and blending Teas that will please his customers, the next most important consideration for him is how best to bring them before the notice of his trade and the public generally. In this case he must not treat his Tea as a “staple” article, but as an entirely new commodity requiring a special effort for its introduction. Nothing gives such a bad impression to Tea customers as careless and slovenly[97] packing of Tea. All Tea bags should be of fine quality and neatly, if not artistically, printed, and great care should be taken to obtain neatness of appearance in tying them up. The dealer should also have some special and appropriate name for his blends, this brand appearing prominently on the package, together with specific instructions for drawing the Tea. Small hand-bills, brief, pointed and attractive, describing the merits of the blend may also be placed in every purchase of other goods and sugar, and other bags or wrappers should contain special notices so that they may reach others who do not buy Tea, and the clerks or salesmen should also be instructed to talk up the Tea frequently but judiciously as possible.

The dealer should ascertain where customers for other goods get their Tea, what variety or grade it is, what price they pay for it, and, if possible, obtain a sample of it. Then test it carefully and be prepared to show that he can not only match it, but furnish a better one in both price and quality, giving them samples at the same time to prove it. And again, if a tea customer should quit dealing suddenly he should immediately find out the cause and endeavor to remedy it. He should also send out samples occasionally throughout the neighborhood of a line of Teas that he may deem suitable to the locality. But above and beyond all other efforts to increase his Tea trade, he should handle only high-grade Teas, endeavoring at all times to prove that the finer Teas are the most economical and satisfactory to purchase in the end, as the finer grades yield a larger margin of profit to the dealer and better satisfaction to the consumer, while it has a tendency to create favorable comment and win an increasing Tea trade.

Latterly, a new development in the Tea trade has, to the surprise and loss of the older generation of retail grocers and Tea dealers, assumed quite a prominence, for, if the glowing advertisements and startling placards in stores and on fences form any criterion, the public are taking a liking to the cheap and trashy-blended Teas put up in tins, lead, paper and other Tea-deteriorating packages under fancy names which have no relation whatever to the variety, district or country where they are grown, it being an acknowledged principle that Teas blended in bulk and put back again in their original lead-lined chests undoubtedly keep better, preserving its strength and flavor longer than when exposed to the oxydizing influences of the atmosphere during its transference to the tin, lead or paper packets ornamented with a cheap and showy label, which the more gorgeous they are the more apt to communicate the taste of the ink, paste, glue or other foul-smelling material in which it is packed to the Tea they are intended to adorn.

And still another reason why the Grocer and Tea dealer should avoid these blended packet Teas is that the cost of the packages, labels and labor, adds from eight to ten cents per pound to the original price of the Tea, in addition to the cost of advertising and flaunting them before the eyes of the public, an expense which is simply enormous in itself, and which the dealer and consumer must eventually pay for, either by a higher price or inferior quality of the Tea. Again, engaged as most dealers are at the present time in trying to stop the plague of all sorts of proprietary goods put up in cheap and oftentimes ill-smelling packages, which yields them so little profit and makes them only the servants of the packers, it is astonishing, to say the least, that any[99] dealer can be found to adopt the same system with Tea when they can put up some favorite blend, and pack it themselves in cleaner, cheaper and more stylish packages, if their customers should desire it in that form, and sell them under their own brand and name, and not work to make money and a reputation for others who dictate to him as to what he shall or shall not do with regard to selling Teas. For instance, you are paying 43 cents for Package Tea with premiums, if you handle it. You sell this Tea at 60 cents, making 17 cents per pound profit. Now by putting up your own blend and giving your own premiums you can buy just as good Tea, or better, for 20 cents per pound. You can buy just as good premiums to stand you 12 cents per pound, making 32 cents instead of 43, or a saving of 11 cents or 33⅓ per cent. Besides, you control your own Tea trade and have the advertising free.

The art of selling Tea is even a much more difficult one than that of buying, owing to the numerous different and varying tastes to be catered to. For this reason alone the dealer should learn all he possibly can about the article, in order that he may be enabled to suit each particular liking and at the same time answer any and all questions about it intelligently. Find out what grade and variety as well as the desired strength and flavor of the Tea your customers prefer, and occasionally give them small samples of the different blends to try until you have caught their taste. Make a note of same, and always afterwards endeavor to give them as near the same kind and quality. Talk up your Teas in a clear and practical manner, and be sure your scales, weights and scoops are always clean and shining, and keep a small memorandum book in which to mark the kind and[100] retail prices of your Teas, the date in which the caddie has been filled and the quantity it holds, as this method gives an accurate idea of the quantity of Tea sold in a certain time, which will be found particularly useful when Blended Teas are largely sold.

In brief, advertise your Teas freely but judiciously and modestly, never claiming too much for them, that is, let your advertisements be brief but novel, and change the same at least once per week, and always push your high-grade Teas first, last and all the time. Now and then give a Tea-testing exhibit in your store by fixing up a space near the door or window as a Tea-room surrounded by Tea-boxes with fancy faces, hanging some Chinese or Japanese lanterns around with which to light up at night to attract attention. Inside of which place a small Tea-table, a small gas stove, with kettle and cups for drawing the Tea. By this means the dealer will be enabled to prepare fresh-made Tea at all times, with fresh-boiled water, of any kind the customer may desire to taste or to push the sale of any particular blend he may desire to introduce among his trade. But it is advisable at these exhibits to use only fine Teas, using the common grades only by way of comparison. By this means the dealer can conveniently and readily point out to the customer the great advantages to be gained and economy of purchasing only high-grade Teas. Instruct your patrons meantime how to properly prepare Tea for use, emphasizing the fact that Tea must be brewed and not stewed, as is too often the case among consumers.

ART OF PREPARING TEA FOR USE.

It is singular, to say the least, that nothing is ever done by Tea dealers in this country to educate or enlighten[101] their customers in the proper manner of preparing their Tea for use, to study the character of the water or to preserve its aromatic properties after purchasing. Good Tea, like good wine, can be kept intact for years with considerable advantage to the dealer and consumer alike, and there is no valid reason why consumers of Tea should not be as particular and fastidious as drinkers of wine. But to obtain a good cup of Tea, in the first place the consumer should purchase only the best Tea, it requiring much less of the finer grades to make good Tea than of the common kinds, and will prove the most economical in the end.

In the proper preparation of Tea for use, the quality of the infusion is much affected also by the character of the water as well as by the method of making or drawing it. Tea being an infusion and not a decoction like coffee, it should be brewed not stewed, the chief object being to extract as much of the theine or refreshing principle as possible and as little of the tannin or astringent property as can be, at the same time without either boiling or overdrawing it. Many Tea drinkers who imagine erroneously that a very dark-colored liquor indicates strength boil the leaves, while others again spoil the infusion by first putting the leaves in boiling water. Some again place the leaves in cold water, and then put it, the vessel on the fire to boil, prolonged infusion being another serious mistake. All of these improper methods produce the same evil results, viz., that of extracting an increased amount of the tannin, thereby destroying the true color and flavor of the Tea by imparting a blackish color and giving a bitter or astringent taste to the liquor. When Tea has been once boiled or overdrawn, the increased quantity of tannin extracted can be readily[102] detected by the extreme dark color of the liquor as well as by its bitterly astringent flavor. Another reprehensible practice of some Tea makers is that of adding fresh leaves into the tea pot with those that have been already once drawn, as it cannot add to either the strength or flavor of the Tea by putting more leaves in the tea pot after the first drawing, for the simple reason that the Tea water will not extract the theine from the dry leaves of the fresh Tea. Only fresh boiling water will do this effectually, the water once used only increases the amount of tannin extracted, thereby darkening the color and destroying the flavor and merely adds to the quantity of leaves already in the vessel without at all affecting the active principle, theine. So that if it be required to increase the quantity or strength of the infusion already in the pot, some fresh Tea leaves must be drawn in a separate vessel and the liquor poured in that already made.

In the proper preparation of Tea for use, therefore, the object should be to extract as little of the tannin as possible and as much of the theine and volatile oil as can be extracted without permitting the infusion to boil or overdraw. To best obtain these most desirable results, put the requisite quantity of Tea leaves in a covered china or earthenware pot—all tin and metal vessels should be avoided—and pour in freshly boiling water that has been boiling for at least three minutes, and then allow the vessel to stand where it will keep hot, WITHOUT boiling, for from eight to ten minutes before serving, according to the variety of Tea used. There will be a sparkle and aroma about Tea made from fresh boiling water in this manner that it will not receive from the flat, hot water that has been boiled too long or[103] repeatedly. In the stated time while the Tea is drawing only the refreshing and exhilarating properties—the theine and volatile oil—are extracted from the leaves, a longer infusion only dissolving and extracting the astringent and deleterious principle—tannic acid—which impairs digestion and injures the nervous system, for which causes alone all boiled or overdrawn Tea should be avoided.

An earthern tea pot made of Minton, Doulton, or Satsuma ware, is the best kind of vessel to prepare Tea in, but it must first be scalded out with boiling water before putting the Tea leaves in and then set on the range or stove to dry and keep hot for a few minutes. The Tea leaves are then put in, after which they are also allowed to heat for a short time before the boiling water is poured on them, from eight to ten minutes before the Tea is required for use. The character of the water also greatly influences the quality of the Tea, it being almost next to impossible to make good Tea with hard water, so that soft water should always be used when available, and any excess of lime in the water also deteriorates the infusion. But this latter difficulty may be easily remedied by the judicious addition of a little carbonate of soda, as much as will cover the face of a dime being sufficient for an ordinary drawing of Tea.

In moderate strength it requires about one teaspoonful of good tea to a half pint of boiling water and an ordinary half teacupful of leaves to every quart of boiling water, the latter making a fairly strong infusion for five persons. China and Japan Teas require from eight to ten minutes to draw thoroughly, the former requiring but little milk and sugar, while Japan Teas are more[104] palatable without the addition of either. India Ceylon and Java Teas generally should not be allowed to draw more than from five to seven minutes at the outside after the boiling water has been poured on, as prolonged infusion makes the flavor of these varieties particularly mawkish and bitter, while the addition of an extra quantity of both milk and sugar greatly improves their drinking qualities.

Transcriber's Note

Prices are missing in many of the recipes in the book; this is as printed.

The following apparent errors have been corrected:

p. 11 "eggregious" changed to "egregious"
p. 11 "kaleidescopic" changed to "kaleidoscopic"
p. 20 "make color" changed to "make, color"
p. 25 "course" changed to "coarse"
p. 37 "course" changed to "coarse"
p. 38 "juciest" changed to "juiciest"
p. 38 "omitted" changed to "emitted"
p. 39 "thiene" changed to "theine"
p. 39 "value this" changed to "value, this"
p. 39 "not accustomed" changed to "accustomed"
p. 40 "loose" changed to "lose"
p. 43 "to the the" changed to "to the"
p. 46 "onced" changed to "once"
p. 52 "intended that" changed to "intended, that"
p. 54 "ridgidly" changed to "rigidly"
p. 58 "similiar" changed to "similar"
p. 60 "No 13." changed to "No. 13."
p. 60 "Chociest" changed to "Choicest"
p. 63 "of." changed to "of:—"
p. 64 "Imperal" changed to "Imperial"
p. 68 "together" changed to "together."
p. 70 "varities" changed to "varieties"
p. 71 "No 2." changed to "No. 2."
p. 75 "science very" changed to "science; very"
p. 77 "Pekoe-Sonchong" changed to "Pekoe-Souchong"
p. 82 "(3)" changed to "(3.)"
p. 83 "Teas, composing" changed to "Teas composing"
p. 85 "character instead" changed to "character, instead"
p. 89 "(3)" changed to "(3.)"

The following possible errors have not been changed:

p. 9 fuller-liquied
p. 52 at a moderate cost
p. 57 .19

Inconsistent punctuation has otherwise been left as printed.

The following are inconsistently used in the text:

Basketfired and Basket-fired
Ningchow and Ning-chow
Ningyong and Ning-yong
Panfired and Pan-fired
Sundried and Sun-dried

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Pages.
I.—Introduction	7–11
II.—Classification and Description of Teas	13–36
III.—Art of Testing and Selecting Teas	37–44
IV.—Adulteration and Detection	45–49
V.—Art of Blending Teas	51–91
VI.—Art of Keeping, Selling and Preparing Tea	93–104

Parts.	Varieties.	Price.
2	Ning-chow Congou	@ .14
10	Amoy Oolong	@ .12
Average cost		.13

Parts.	Varieties.	Price.
2	Oonfa Congou	@ .20
8	Mohea Oolong	@ .16
Average cost		.16½

Parts.	Varieties.	Price.
1	Moning Congou	@ .20
2	Amoy Oolong	@ .20
7	Foochow Oolong	@ .20
Average cost		.20

Parts.	Varieties.	Price.
1	Foochow Oolong	@ .18
2	Kaisow Congou	@ .20
10	Ning-yong Oolong	@ .16
Average cost		.19